so I installed my short ram air inake today. seems to give me some power...but not at the right spot. it seems to me atleast like all my low end power has vanished. almost as when i step on the gas pedal it bogs down until i get in the higher rpms. then it goes. where before (or atleast this is what i though) it just gradually got up to speed, but in a good amount of time. what could be causing this? i know i should get it tuned, but moneys tight. i dont mind wasting a little gas right now. but idk, could be me but seems like it has changed.

shorter intake path = powerband up top
long intake path = powerband down low

I'm personally surpirsed your seeing much of a difference in power, your butt dyno calibrated?

Also it could be the change in throttle response your noticing.

well with exhuast and intake i should have a decent hp upgrade. but yea could be throttle response. would it be that much different from a intake? i mean its noticeable. its a dog when im in low rpms, its used to be decent.

I would expect gains from the exhaust more than the intake. The majority of OEM ones flow pretty damn good now a days.

One thing a intake does change is throttle response. Mine is a little off now.

yeah i know my stock box was restrictive. this intake "says 11+hp/16+tq" while K&N says " 24+hp ?tq" but i just dont like how it goes nowhere when im down low. almost like im losing power...

id get it tuned or buy an accessport but dont have the money right now. so i guess thats how its gonna hav to stay...

NEVER trust what the manu of the product say... they up talk the product...

They say maxima ones are 10-20.. when its 1 or 2 if anything.. And ours has a big ol' resinator box in it..

well ive heard from people that the 22+ isnt at all 22, but that the cobb 11+hp is pretty accurate. 11 being the accurate number. no higher. turbo cars usually get better numbers than n/a cars.

you need a tune. when you put on the intake, the diameter of the piping is likely larger than stock. Thus, when you step on it, the throttle body flicks open and lets in a ton more air than the maf is calibrated for, causing a lean spot and the engine to bog.


it also could be the ECU seeing more air and just dumping fuel at it to stay safe.


get it tuned. or at least us an SAFC and someone who knows what they're doing with it.

What kind did you go with? My buddy had a fujita on his ms3 and did see a 20hp gain. The airbox on those engines are EXTREMLY restrictive

ms3s boooo lol