so the for the past week or so ive noticed that the mustang has bun running very rich, well yesterday i drove to north kingstown to look at a future purchase, and i noticed it seemed lagy on the highway. then on my way home, i noticed at idle it seemed rough and sputtery, well i have all the service records on the car so i know the plugs were never changed out, i just rolled over 50k on it, so there due, plus ive been running no cats, no tune, for almost a year, so this morning i decided to pull the plugs and check them, along with the coil packs. well apparently they torque these plugs in or something because i had to use a 3 foot brake bar to get the first one free, second one was just as tight, except when i pulled the plug out, half of it stayed in the head. so i figured ok, it was broken and now ill just get some tools and pull it out. NOPE! the bottom half of the plug is frozen in the head, i pulled the electrode straight through the bottom of the plug, launched myself onto my ass, and the damn plug didnt move, and yes the entire threaded part came out, so its not threaded in there, i have tried about everything, after dinner im going to sears and home depot to try to find any tools i could combine and use to get this thing out. ill get some picks of the broken plug later

put anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs before putting them in, and of course dielectric grease on the boots. never had a problem changing my plugs.

see this is the problem



that part thats all brown, thats rust, and it rusts itself to the wall of the head, then when you pull it, the threaded part separates, the ceramic cracks and breaks, and the top half comes out, the rest stays. aparantly its a common problem in the 3 valve motors, they make a tool for it, it costs 70 dollars, on top of the $100 i had to spend on new plugs. this is turning into the most expensive, and time consuming plug change ever.

dammm those are some crazy looking plugs... maybe if they weren't 20 feet long they might come out easier....

wow dude that blows!

So you got it out?

that is odd.

glad i dont have to change those.

start the motor with the rest in, they will come right out.

nope, gotta get a special tool

so thats the fix, a special too? what kind of crap is that.

So, what is in the motor that you need a tool for?

the part in the pic thats rusty, thats not my pic, i stole it from the interwebz.

that sucks man i had the last plug get stuck when i changed them on the max the rubber bottom of the boot stayed when i pulled it out so i couldnt get it back on or get to the socket part of the plug spent the better part of 4 1/2 hours pulling out rubber piece by piece till i could get it out and fo course it had to be the one in the back so i had to stand on the motor to get to it!

Good luck with it man

im never changing my spark plugs again

That's where the confusion set in. Ummmmmm good luck!?!!?

troof!

cause i dont have any!!

compression ignition FTMFW!!

cause I sell way before I have too! used car salesman ftmfw!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-65600/ this tool?

good luck brandon, ive heard these can be a real bitch

that sucks and all....but i'm still trying to figure out what terarded means.....hahaha

yupp that tool.



switch the t with the first r

yeahh i know, just fuckin with ya buddy

lol, got me beat there.


well did you get them out?

didnt get the tool yet, no one local has it, im waiting to hear back from my friend at the dealership if he can get one for me to borrow.

fine fine ford engineering yanno2 valves spit em out 3 valves they get stuck in. beware of those claimed "one piece"champion plugs, have heard that they are JUNK not properly rated and just like fords, not one piece.
Procedure I found for it..still doesn't gaurentee no breakage of course!

this is supposedly proper procedure
"1) the engine must be cold (room temperature).
2) loosen the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn only to start.
3) use the recommended Ford "carb/tune up cleaner" and let soak on all spark plugs AT LEAST 15 minutes. The Ford carb/tune up cleaner works better than penetrating oil on the varnish build up which is the root cause of the problem removing the spark plugs.
4) it is normal and desired to hear a loud "creaking" when removing the plug, if this is not heard when first starting to remove the plug, change direction and tighten some, then try loosing some more, repeat if necessary.
5) Use antiseize compound on the new spark plug shields so they will come out easier when it's time."

Whenever I get the urge to buy something new(er)... Things like this snap me back to reality.