Specifically the pinion bearing seal. My rear end is fucked. Long story, gives me a headache thinking about it. I need to know if when you change the pinion seal on theGM 10 BOLT is there a torque spec for that nut? I'm hearing two different stories as to if it does or does not. I'm googling it now but I want to see if any of you guru's know the answer. Kind of a many more opinions lol. Apparently the Fords do have a torque spec on it, I'm told by my mechanic other wise though when it comes to GM's

dont know much about them, other than that they suck. weak rear ends. i blew mine up in less than a month when i had the camaro.

that that new fangled optional rear diff that comes on the balt/G5's now?!

shes talking about her firebird.

actually, im talking about my truck but yes, i was thinking about putting it in rocket, sempt like a good idea LOL They are optional afterall. Verdict though, there is no torque specs.

no torque spec. if you are reusing the crush collar you put red lock-tite on the pinion threads, tighten the nut until you have no slop in the pinion and give it a snug pull, then take a punch and stake the nut in 3 places at the end of the threads.

GM calls for the nut to be installed at 5lbs/ft more than it was at previously to disassembly. Basically gotta use a tq wrench and see what its at now and go 5lbs more when you re do it.

too late for that...... LOL

Mine was for the turd anyways.

I think the official torque spec is 10 ft lbs tighter then whatever you tighten it to. I've tried twice to replace the pinion seal on my Blazer and it still leaks a little bit.

this.

if you were using a new crush collar its different. but i just always lock tited them, hit it with the air gun, and staked the nut. seemd to work good for me.

and mark you had a 7.5inch 10 bolt. those are ghey. the 8.5's are much better

Spence pretty much nailed it. I would have said the same thing. If you do the job that way and the seal leaks again 6 monthes later then you did the job RIGHT. They all leak.

I had sent the truck out to get a safety done and they were supposed to do the main seal and the pinion seal. I think they over tightened or didn't tighten the nut enough because my rear end is now FUCKED. It goes back in tomorrow so they can look at it. They told me that there was no torque spec for it, but my brother told me other wise but said to look it up to make sure.

what you need to do is toss that 10 bolt right in the trash and put a 14 bolt in it's place....

to do it right with a new crush collar GM calls for a bearing preload of 25 INCH pounds, this is not a pinion nut torque spec. 25 in pounds is just tight enough so the pinion resists spinning with no carrier. (If you spin the yoke by hand it should make like a 1/2 to 1 revolution before stopping). If they messed with it and it leaks, the pinion nut is not tight enough. on the 7.5's if the pinion leaks its because the bearings are loose and its wobbling.

It's not leaking or anything, its howling and chattering. It never did this prior to them replacing the seals. This was only two weeks ago. Hopefully they fix it, if not, it will come home and we'll go from there.

by go from there, she means go there with a shotgun

Verdict: Two bearings are shot. One (or both?) are the pinion bearings. It's there right now getting fixed. Fingers crossed I'll have it back by the end of the night.

the inner and outer pinion bearings

ehh you might have it back. theyre not chanign the gears or anything so they dont really have to shim anything. hope they get it right. and make sure they use a new crush collar

All done, got it back that night. Sounds nice and quiet again