well it looks like im keeping this car so my question is i have a 2004 nissan altima 2.5l and i wanna swap it out for a 3.5l vq motor. what kinda price am i lookin at on the swap if i do it myself? I know i need the motor and computer and exaust and motor mounts anything else i would need? will my trans mount up and work with the v6 also.

this is something i wanna to cause then i would be alot happier with this car

You're gonna need the VQ + tranny, axles possibly, ECU and harness, motor mounts, the VQ subframe, your intake may fit I'm not positive though(though you will need the IM and TB from the VQ obviously), and the exhaust you may be able to use from the y-pipe back. Ask Leathe of Heaven over on nissanclub how his exhast is routed.

I would personally just build up the QR as much as you want to and leave it at that.

actually there's a really fast and easy way to do it:



trade.



seriously, don't bother putting all that work into it. It's gonna cost more than just trading the thing

where you going to get the engine from? i know they have the RWD ones that are in the 350z and then the FWD ones that are also in the altima. . . .

i assume that if you get the one out of the altima it would be cheaper to do than getting the RWD one from the 350z... but RWD is fun...

i would but im pretty fucked on it i owe way more then its worth plus its got over 100k miles on it

then you're better to just mod the 4cyl. A 6cyl swap would not be worth it. For the amount of money you'd pay, you could mod the 4cyl a little and throw a couple grand at the loan.

IMO moding the 4cyl isnt worth it either unless he's gonna turbo it.

ok so its agreed... use it for a trade in!

If you lived closer i might trade ya!...But my wife will have a fit!!She loves her 3.5

Toss a turbo inside and call it a day.

what marc said...just dont "just slap a turbo on it" and call it a day...if you like your car LOL

RWD block won't bolt into a fwd app FYI. Outer castings are different.




Turbo on a stock QR25 :nailbite:

lol why is that its just like turbo on any stock block isnt it

The block isn't the question (for the most part) it's the internals. If your internals aren't forged you won't be able to handle much past 5psi boost if that. In order to *PROPERLY* turbo a car you need to reasonably build the motor to match.

**PROPERLY is used in the sense that plenty of people (particularly ricers) slap a $400 ebay turbo on something and call it a day, and then when they pop their motor 2mo down the line because the boost bug hits and they turn the knob up, they wonder why and blame it on a shitty kit or a shitty car.

Do your homework, and do it right, so that you only have to do it once. That being said, I also prefer this philosophy:

Cheap, fast, or reliable. You can only have 2 of them.

I'm personally not impressed with the QR, I feel the KA and the SR series is much better engineered but it's also old technology now. So much that I refuse to own one. I've read alot of problems with engine failures. I know most of them fail do to the precat in the exhaust manifold disinergrating. There is also a few bolts that like to work their way loose and get sucked into the combustion chamber IIRC.

You could boost the motor no problem, with a good tune that is and proper fuel mods. Keep it mild boost.

id also recommend meth injection if possible even with relatively mild boost to further protect against detonation. Definitely wouldn't go past 5-6psi.

Meth isn't needed. I just did a bit more research on the subject and many people, sentra se-r floks but same motor alas, and they're running 8-9psi comfortably. Also problems I've listed were for the 06 and under QR's. I guess they fixed them for 06+

not needed, but certainly won't hurt. Plus the lower temps would help power output a bit. They may be comfortable with it, but I wonder how the motors last with a few thousand miles on that boost. Like terrence said, hes going to have to keep this thing for a while.

One guy reported 20k hard miles same motor

with no mods to internals? I doubt it, at the very least they couldn't have been hard miles.

Stock internals. Why do you doubt it?


http://forums.nicoclub.com/scott-s-altima-...ld-t443714.html

+1 on this. I'm not a fan of the QR whatsoever but the KA is old. Most NA engines can't go past 5-6PSI comfortably whereas people with the KA are boosting 9-12PSI on stock internals. Depending how much money you want to invest I would say you could either do your basic bolt ons and make it a little peppier around town and on the highway or you can boost it. Is this your DD? If so I wouldn't recommend boost. Like someone else posted, there's cheap, fast, and reliable. You can only have two.

What ever you do get rid of that damn factory exhaust manifold and pull the power rod and secure the screws lol

A genius once told me there is no replacement for displacement.

^ And he was RIGHT!!

I honestly dont think it'd be worth the money, but you werent asking for my opinion....

your best bet IMO, is to find a wrecked 3.5 and pull the whole subframe out. buy the whole car so you have everything. you may need the fuel pump ( but i doubt it) and other little things. but a whole car with a good nose/subframe would make it the easiest.

ya well this is also my DD so i guess ill never get much performace out of it.

Listen to NRW! Get rid of that damned exhaust manifold and loctite the screws on those butterfly valves! When I bought my car, the engine was already blown due to that damn pre-cat... but during the rebuild, we went to loctite the screws, and one was about to fall out. Good thing we checked them, or that would have been a pointless rebuild!!!

can you guys give me pics so i know what im lookin on this exhaust manifold and loctite the screws on those butterfly valves

Well for the exhaust manifold with the pre-cat, you should just replace it with an aftermarket header.
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=151644
And there is a thread on the screws you need to loctite.

that looks like alot of work, i would hate to fuck something up trying to do that butterfly shit myself

yup i had to loctite them and get headers for them. but i always figured if suck up a bolt, you get a new engine since there was a recall out for it.

i need to check with the stealership find out if they will do it for me if its not already done

It's not that hard. My friend and I did it to his Spec V in like 45 minutes... in the dark with a flash light lol
Here was what we found :





We already had figured one had fallen out but still sucked for him...

so did it mess up his car?

if a screw gets sucked down into the combustion chamber. Somethings going to get fucked up. lol

man i hope my shit dont get fucked up ill be pissed, ive already replaced the motor once

well do work son

lol i might do it and hope i dont fuck anything up in the process