All credit for this write up goes to Massacre.
http://horman.dyndns.org:82/forum/showthread.php?t=183
Full Version: Oil Pump Install On A Teskid Block
OK guys, just wanted to post up some tech. My early Teksid came with the "low-volume" Mustang GT oil pump, so naturally I wanted to upgrade to the high-volume Cobra pump. Installing this pump is a good idea for those that are bumping up the performance of their 2V motor, as all of the 2Vs got the low-volume pump. I didn't take as many pics as I wanted to, mainly because my hands were covered in oil, and oily hands and expensive digital camera don't mix..lol.
Here's the pump and the part # for those that are interested:
Now many people say that the OEM pumps can have casting flaws which can lead to pump failure, as well as some OEM pumps came with the reief valve installed incorrectly. To check for these things the pump needs to be disassembled, checked and then reassembled before install. I'm not sure how true this really is, but I'm not taking any chances, especially when it's so easy to check these things while the pump is on the bench....and not in the car.
First step is to flip the pump over and remove the cover to expose the oil pump gears.
If you can read upside down, you'll see that this requires a T-27 torx bit. Once the cover is removed, look for any cracks or casting flaws in the case. I didn't take a pic of this, but mine had none. The difference between the GT and Cobra pump gears is obvious in these two pics:
The relief valve can be removed with an allen wrench. I forget the size at the moment but I update later to include the size. Make sure it is installed exactly like this:
The relief valve can then be reinstalled and torqed to 40 lb/ft. The gears can then be installed using fresh, clean oil as a lubricant:
Then the cover can be torqued down to 100 lb/in. I couldn't find a torque sequence for this so I just went and tightened them in a criss-cross pattern, very slowly and carefully:
Now the pump is ready for install. Slide the pump over the snout of the crank, and align the inner gear so that it slidea onto the flats machined into the crankshaft. Once this is done,tighten the oil pump to block bolts finger-tight and turn the motor over to make sure there is no binding. If there is binding, the pump is not installed correctly. Remove the pump and try again until it operates smoothly. Then you can remove the bolts, and apply a drop or two of red loctite.
Next, tighten the oil pump to block bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 100 lb/in. This completes the installation of the oil pump.
Next is the pickup tube.
Turn the motor upside down with the oil pan removed to expose the rotating assembly. I put rags down to protect the rotating assembly from debris or dropped bolts. The kit that I got from FRPP came with the Cobra pickup tube. This is not the pickup tube that I will be using, but I included it anyway since 99% of people use this pickup tube. The pickup tube bolts to the oil pump with two bolts, and to the block with one bolt. The pickup tube came with the O-ring required to make a good seal. NOTE: the low-volume pickup tube cannot be used with the high-volume pump. The low-volume pickup tube is smaller in diameter than the high-volume tube, and if the smaller tube is used with the bigger pump, a huge leak will occur which you don't want.
Place the flanged end of the pickup tube into the hole in the oil pump, and finger tighten the bolts. Then bolt in the pickup screen end of the tube finger tight also. Place the oil pan on the motor to check the fit of the pan and make sure that the pan will bolt up correcly. Remove the pan, and again using a drop of red loctite, torque the two fasteners at the oil pump to 100 lb/in. Then tighten the bolt that holds the rear of the pickup tube to 20 lb./ft. This concludes the oil pump/pickup tube installation.
Once I locate the proper pickup tube for my application, I will add the proper way to install the oil pan with modeling clay to check the clearance between the bottom of the oil pan and the pickup screen.
Hope this was entertaining to some here, and if you have any specific questions please feel free to ask.
Here's the pump and the part # for those that are interested:
Now many people say that the OEM pumps can have casting flaws which can lead to pump failure, as well as some OEM pumps came with the reief valve installed incorrectly. To check for these things the pump needs to be disassembled, checked and then reassembled before install. I'm not sure how true this really is, but I'm not taking any chances, especially when it's so easy to check these things while the pump is on the bench....and not in the car.
First step is to flip the pump over and remove the cover to expose the oil pump gears.
If you can read upside down, you'll see that this requires a T-27 torx bit. Once the cover is removed, look for any cracks or casting flaws in the case. I didn't take a pic of this, but mine had none. The difference between the GT and Cobra pump gears is obvious in these two pics:
The relief valve can be removed with an allen wrench. I forget the size at the moment but I update later to include the size. Make sure it is installed exactly like this:
The relief valve can then be reinstalled and torqed to 40 lb/ft. The gears can then be installed using fresh, clean oil as a lubricant:
Then the cover can be torqued down to 100 lb/in. I couldn't find a torque sequence for this so I just went and tightened them in a criss-cross pattern, very slowly and carefully:
Now the pump is ready for install. Slide the pump over the snout of the crank, and align the inner gear so that it slidea onto the flats machined into the crankshaft. Once this is done,tighten the oil pump to block bolts finger-tight and turn the motor over to make sure there is no binding. If there is binding, the pump is not installed correctly. Remove the pump and try again until it operates smoothly. Then you can remove the bolts, and apply a drop or two of red loctite.
Next, tighten the oil pump to block bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 100 lb/in. This completes the installation of the oil pump.
Next is the pickup tube.
Turn the motor upside down with the oil pan removed to expose the rotating assembly. I put rags down to protect the rotating assembly from debris or dropped bolts. The kit that I got from FRPP came with the Cobra pickup tube. This is not the pickup tube that I will be using, but I included it anyway since 99% of people use this pickup tube. The pickup tube bolts to the oil pump with two bolts, and to the block with one bolt. The pickup tube came with the O-ring required to make a good seal. NOTE: the low-volume pickup tube cannot be used with the high-volume pump. The low-volume pickup tube is smaller in diameter than the high-volume tube, and if the smaller tube is used with the bigger pump, a huge leak will occur which you don't want.
Place the flanged end of the pickup tube into the hole in the oil pump, and finger tighten the bolts. Then bolt in the pickup screen end of the tube finger tight also. Place the oil pan on the motor to check the fit of the pan and make sure that the pan will bolt up correcly. Remove the pan, and again using a drop of red loctite, torque the two fasteners at the oil pump to 100 lb/in. Then tighten the bolt that holds the rear of the pickup tube to 20 lb./ft. This concludes the oil pump/pickup tube installation.
Once I locate the proper pickup tube for my application, I will add the proper way to install the oil pan with modeling clay to check the clearance between the bottom of the oil pan and the pickup screen.
Hope this was entertaining to some here, and if you have any specific questions please feel free to ask.
Very nice write-up Rob.
I know you've explained it to me before but I seem to have forgotten, whats the project you're working on? We have a project log section too if you want to write about it.
I know you've explained it to me before but I seem to have forgotten, whats the project you're working on? We have a project log section too if you want to write about it.
QUOTE (84ta406 @ Dec 30 2008, 07:38 PM) 
Very nice write-up Rob.
I know you've explained it to me before but I seem to have forgotten, whats the project you're working on? We have a project log section too if you want to write about it.
I know you've explained it to me before but I seem to have forgotten, whats the project you're working on? We have a project log section too if you want to write about it.
I am doing a 2V to 4V swap, engine/trans rebuild, computer/wiring swap.
Great post dude, If you have any questions talk to Mike Dez 508-336-6588. He just did a couple of cars. One was a 90 GT with a well built four valve and Procharger R1. It layed down like 700 RWHP!! And he is a awesome dude.
700HP 
Oh yeah dude rear wheel HP
If i had the money... i d love to get another SN95 and do a Whipple 4.6 dohc Build...some day.
There is also a 04 conv. At Dez's with the new mammoth whipple that is 700 RWHP.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.