4th Gen How-To Section (credit to whoever We take the instructions from)
These are list of how to's
Table of Contents
post #'s
#2 = 60k service, clean iacv, adjust iacv, test knock sensor
#3 = Knock Sensor Diagnosis, Test and Installation
#4 = SC Install Guide For Dummies
#5 = Head Lights & Tail Lights Mods
#6 = Engine
#7 = Interior
#8 = exterior
#9 = brakes
#10=handling
#11= exhaust, intake, o2 sensors
#12= Drivetrain/ Transmission
#13= electrical
#14= top off a/c
#17=all the Code Scanner Codes Converted fron the Haynes ManualScan Tool Trouble Code --- Check Engine Light flash code
#18-23= ECU CODES
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:16 PM #2
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60K Service
http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...k_service.html
How to clean IAC
Tools needed:
10 and 12 mm sockets
3 inch socket extension
universal joint (swivel pivot socket thing)
12-inch rachet (a short rachet may not work - need something to apply a lot of torque to loosen the bolts
Philip's screwdriver
rag
throttle body cleaner
see attatchment #1
1. Unplug the 4 connectors from the IAC assembly. Undo the hose that connects teh IAC to the intake assembly.
2. The metal bracket holding up the gray-colored connector is blocking one of the IAC mounting bolts. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt that holds the metal bracket. The bolt is just below the purple connector - you have to twist your head and crane your neck around to see the bolt.
3. Remove the 3 mounting bolts using the 12mm socket. The lowest bolt may require the Universal joint.
4. Pull out your IAC valve and clean it w/throttle body cleaner, rag, and old toothbrush.
You may even want to separate the plastic valve to clean it more thoroughly. Use a philip's head screwdriver, but make sure it is a snug fight. It's on there tight and if you don't have a good fitting screwdriver, you could ruin the screw head.
Reinstallation is just the reverse of these steps. It may be easier access to the IAC if you remove the whole air intake assembly, but it's not necessary.
How to adjust IACV -
Warm the engine up to operating temp.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the TPS.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed using the stop screw on the throttle body to 650 RPM's.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the TPS and restart the engine.
If the IACV is working correctly your idle should be correct. If it's a bit low, try adjusting the screw on the IACV bypass to get your idle speed to ~700 in neutral with no load. (no load means no lights or A/C)
How to test knock sensor - The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.
2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.
3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.
Info on Calispec KS install(99) - http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=315851
Full Version: th Generation Maxima How-To's (1995-1999)
Knock Sensor Diagnosis, Test and Installation
Once and for all: a bad knock sensor WILL NOT trip the check engine light, you must extract the codes from the ECU to determine if your sensor is (potentially) bad (code 0304). Some other hints as to a bad KS: poor acceleration below 3000 RPM (I was getting tired of being left behind at stoplights by Honda Civics), reduced gas mileage.
If you don’t already own a Haynes or Chilton manual, get one. In addition to telling you how to extract the codes and locate the KS, there is a wealth of useful information for the do-it yourselfer. I am very cheap, but this an area well worth spending the $20 or so (I bought mine off of EBAY for $10 shipped).
The ECU is located behind the center console on the drivers side. It is accessible by removing the plastic cover panel right next to the gas pedal. The ECU is a metal box with a screw on the side covered by a piece of tape. Peal back the tape to get at the screw. With the ignition in the “On” position, turn the screw all the way clockwise, hold for at least 2 seconds, turn it all the way counterclockwise. Your CEL will now start flashing out any codes stored in the ECU. The codes are two digit numbers. The first number is signaled by long flashes, there will be a two second pause, and the second number will be indicated by a series of short flashes. Long-long-long-pause-short-short-short-short = 0304 (KS fault). There may be more than 1 code in the ECU, they will be flashed out sequentially and the whole sequence will repeat. To clear the codes from the ECU, follow this sequence: clockwise, hold, counterclockwise, hold, clockwise, hold, counterclockwise.
A good KS will measure ~550 k-Ohm resistance between the left pin of the KS and ground. You can check the resistance without removing the KS by following the harness to the connector. The connector has two pins, only one of them hooks up to the KS, so try them both. The act of whacking on the KS with your wrench can (temporarily) start it working again, so checking the KS once you removed it may not give you the bad reading you suspect. Hint: the connector is not the green one closest to the KS that gets in the way of sticking your hand into the engine cavity (1995-1996 models – most likely 1995-1999). The correct connector is a few inches closer to the front of the car. A heat shielded wire leads into the bottom of it and there are two wires coming out the top, one clear and one black.
Low cost knock sensor sources: The dealer will charge you $160 or so for the sensor. I purchased a Nissan OEM sensor off of EBAY for $90 shipped. I have seen them for as little as $80 and routinely for $100-$110. Search for both “Maxima knock” and “Nissan knock” to make sure you get all the possible matches. You can get a Bosch sensors for $115 shipped from http://www.nissanpartstore.com/nissan_knock_sensor.html
Two good article on KS replacement:
http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
Modifications to the Skippynet method
The article suggest using a 14” (or longer) ¼” socket extension to reach the KS retaining bolt. I found that using a 9” extension made it much easier to get the u-joint onto the KS bolt. To save money, I used two 3/8” drive extensions with a 3/8 to ¼ adapter, a ¼” drive u-joint and a ¼” 12mm socket (most of which I already had). Skippynet suggest using a 12mm flex socket, but being cheap I used a separate socket and u-joint so that I would have a more useful general purpose tool left over than the 12mm flex socket (better yet, I borrowed the u-joint and saved another $8). A 3/8” u-joint is a slightly bigger animal and in my opinion would make it hard to get the socket onto the bolt. It was not at all difficult to loosen the bolt using this setup. I had also borrowed a 16” extension and found it very difficult to get the socket onto the bolt head (I gave up after about 2 minutes, so it probably could have been done).
Once the bolt was out, I used a magnetic pickup to retrieve it (and eliminate the possibility of dropping it into the engine cavity where as you will find out soon, is not a very friendly place). With the bolt removed, you can pull the knock sensor out of the cavity by the harness and replace it. Next, I put the bolt into the new KS and used a small piece of tape to hold it in place while I stuffed it back into the engine cavity (again to eliminate the chance of dropping it in there).
Now the difficult(ish) part: I don’t see how you can locate the bolt into the hole and get it started without stuffing your hand under the manifold. Others have done it using a claw type pickup to position the bolt so no harm in trying. If you have very large hands, you might try enlisting a girlfriend, your mom or a small child as others have done. I was able to get my hand in there and get the bolt hand tight, then it was just a matter of using the 9” extension/u-joint setup again to do the final tightening. Your hands will get cut up a little doing this, but the term “bloody stump” that gets thrown about is quite an exaggeration.
I was able to replace the KS in both cars in less than 1 hour including test drives using this method. Post installation I got back the power of my VQ and gas mileage increased by 2 MPG.
The real key is using the skippynet socket extension method to crack the bolt loose. Once you have jammed your hand into the engine cavity you will realize how difficult it would have been to get a wrench on the bolt and loosen it.
Once and for all: a bad knock sensor WILL NOT trip the check engine light, you must extract the codes from the ECU to determine if your sensor is (potentially) bad (code 0304). Some other hints as to a bad KS: poor acceleration below 3000 RPM (I was getting tired of being left behind at stoplights by Honda Civics), reduced gas mileage.
If you don’t already own a Haynes or Chilton manual, get one. In addition to telling you how to extract the codes and locate the KS, there is a wealth of useful information for the do-it yourselfer. I am very cheap, but this an area well worth spending the $20 or so (I bought mine off of EBAY for $10 shipped).
The ECU is located behind the center console on the drivers side. It is accessible by removing the plastic cover panel right next to the gas pedal. The ECU is a metal box with a screw on the side covered by a piece of tape. Peal back the tape to get at the screw. With the ignition in the “On” position, turn the screw all the way clockwise, hold for at least 2 seconds, turn it all the way counterclockwise. Your CEL will now start flashing out any codes stored in the ECU. The codes are two digit numbers. The first number is signaled by long flashes, there will be a two second pause, and the second number will be indicated by a series of short flashes. Long-long-long-pause-short-short-short-short = 0304 (KS fault). There may be more than 1 code in the ECU, they will be flashed out sequentially and the whole sequence will repeat. To clear the codes from the ECU, follow this sequence: clockwise, hold, counterclockwise, hold, clockwise, hold, counterclockwise.
A good KS will measure ~550 k-Ohm resistance between the left pin of the KS and ground. You can check the resistance without removing the KS by following the harness to the connector. The connector has two pins, only one of them hooks up to the KS, so try them both. The act of whacking on the KS with your wrench can (temporarily) start it working again, so checking the KS once you removed it may not give you the bad reading you suspect. Hint: the connector is not the green one closest to the KS that gets in the way of sticking your hand into the engine cavity (1995-1996 models – most likely 1995-1999). The correct connector is a few inches closer to the front of the car. A heat shielded wire leads into the bottom of it and there are two wires coming out the top, one clear and one black.
Low cost knock sensor sources: The dealer will charge you $160 or so for the sensor. I purchased a Nissan OEM sensor off of EBAY for $90 shipped. I have seen them for as little as $80 and routinely for $100-$110. Search for both “Maxima knock” and “Nissan knock” to make sure you get all the possible matches. You can get a Bosch sensors for $115 shipped from http://www.nissanpartstore.com/nissan_knock_sensor.html
Two good article on KS replacement:
http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
Modifications to the Skippynet method
The article suggest using a 14” (or longer) ¼” socket extension to reach the KS retaining bolt. I found that using a 9” extension made it much easier to get the u-joint onto the KS bolt. To save money, I used two 3/8” drive extensions with a 3/8 to ¼ adapter, a ¼” drive u-joint and a ¼” 12mm socket (most of which I already had). Skippynet suggest using a 12mm flex socket, but being cheap I used a separate socket and u-joint so that I would have a more useful general purpose tool left over than the 12mm flex socket (better yet, I borrowed the u-joint and saved another $8). A 3/8” u-joint is a slightly bigger animal and in my opinion would make it hard to get the socket onto the bolt. It was not at all difficult to loosen the bolt using this setup. I had also borrowed a 16” extension and found it very difficult to get the socket onto the bolt head (I gave up after about 2 minutes, so it probably could have been done).
Once the bolt was out, I used a magnetic pickup to retrieve it (and eliminate the possibility of dropping it into the engine cavity where as you will find out soon, is not a very friendly place). With the bolt removed, you can pull the knock sensor out of the cavity by the harness and replace it. Next, I put the bolt into the new KS and used a small piece of tape to hold it in place while I stuffed it back into the engine cavity (again to eliminate the chance of dropping it in there).
Now the difficult(ish) part: I don’t see how you can locate the bolt into the hole and get it started without stuffing your hand under the manifold. Others have done it using a claw type pickup to position the bolt so no harm in trying. If you have very large hands, you might try enlisting a girlfriend, your mom or a small child as others have done. I was able to get my hand in there and get the bolt hand tight, then it was just a matter of using the 9” extension/u-joint setup again to do the final tightening. Your hands will get cut up a little doing this, but the term “bloody stump” that gets thrown about is quite an exaggeration.
I was able to replace the KS in both cars in less than 1 hour including test drives using this method. Post installation I got back the power of my VQ and gas mileage increased by 2 MPG.
The real key is using the skippynet socket extension method to crack the bolt loose. Once you have jammed your hand into the engine cavity you will realize how difficult it would have been to get a wrench on the bolt and loosen it.
SC Install Guide For Dummies
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=81
How to make your clearance lights brighter
Tools:
Phillips head screwdriver
flathead screwdriver
nail clippers
electrical tape
1) Remove the clearance light. This is the hardest part of the entire process. Do it in the sun, so you can see better. Pop the hood and take out that one screw holding in the clearance light. Get a grip of the light on the edge closest to the headlight, and pull it, with flathead screwdriver at the ready. Look into the gap, near the bottom, find the ball and socket joint holding the light in.
Using the flathead, twist and pry the joint apart. It’s a real pain the first time. Take the light out and unclip it.
2) Remove the bulb holder from the housing with a twist. There are instructions right on the holder.
Then twist the bulb out of the holder.
3) Look on the sides of the bulb. You should see two nubs. Snip off the one CLOSEST TO THE BULB with the nail clippers.
4) Get a piece of electrical tape and wrap the spot where the old nub was, once around. The tape is so that the bulb fits in snug. It should be above, and not touch the other nub, or it might not work.
5) Look at the bulb socket. There’s one notch for the higher nub and one for the lower nub. We want the lower (existing) nub to go into the HIGHER notch. Make sure you twist it to lock it tight.
6) Done deal. Plug the clearance light back in, and flip on your lights to make sure it worked. If it didn’t, go back and make sure you did everything right. If it turns on, you’re done! Put everything back together and enjoy.
9004 lights to 9007 conversion
Ok this is going to be long so here it goes.
I wanted to change my wimpy 9004 bulbs to 9007. At first glance the bulbs look identical, but in fact they are quite different. The 9004 bulb has a wattage rating of 45 watts on low beam and 65 watts on high beam, where as the 9007 bulbs have 55 watts of low beam power and 65 watts of high beam power. Already we know that the extra 10 watts are going to help. Differences don’t end there. The socket looks the same but the wiring is different. For a 9004 bulb the terminals are high, low, and ground. For a 9007 they are high, ground, and low. Also, the bases have different indents for the nubs that stick out inside the headlight housing. The bulb like a key and it only fits into the headlight one way, and like keys they are not interchangeable. The 9004 bulb won’t fit 9007 housing and vice versa. The upper one is the only one in the same location. Now the biggest and most significant difference is the orientation of the filaments. The 9004 bulb uses transverse filaments meaning they are perpendicular to the bulb base. The 9007 bulb uses axial filaments, meaning they are parallel to the bulb base. Plain and simple the beam patter of a 9007 is superior to the 9004. If you haven’t noticed, Nissan doesn’t use 9004 any more. This should mean something. I should also mention that out 9004 housings were not designed for 9007 bulbs. Now this in a way is a bad thing. We are not getting the full potential out of the much-improved 9007, but the improvement is still very noticeable. Also the output is not uncontrollable like a HID conversion kit, which is actually very dangerous. Our housings cannot be aimed properly and because of this HID retrofits produce terrible oncoming glare. 9007 is the next best thing. Now that you know the story lets get modding.
You can do a basic 9007 install using the stock wiring. First swap the low beam and ground wires on both harnesses. Either pull apart the connector to switch the wires or cut the wires and swap them. The low beam wire is green with a yellow tracer for the driver’s side and blue with a black tracer for the passenger’s side. The ground for both sides is black with white dots. Then file down the two lower nubs on the housing where the bulb goes in. Put the 9007 bulb in and plug it in. Aim if needed. That’s it.
For an upgraded harness you could buy one and modify it slightly for the differences between the 9004 and 9007 wires. Or you can also get more involved by making an upgraded headlight harness. There is a great write up to be found at http://www.geocities.com/craigbrace/. I used these directions for my set up. I have a plug and play set up, meaning no cutting or splicing wires. If I want to I can use 9004 bulbs with the stock wiring at any time. What I did was use an old bulb, took it all apart, and soldered the wires directly to the terminals. This is the harness that triggers the relays: high, low, and ground. Pretty simple but it’s not fun taking apart a bulb. To keep the passenger’s side stock harness clean I used another bulb to make a water tight seal. It’s just the plastic base with the end full of hot melt glue sealing up the holes.
You can do this for the cost of new bulbs. The Xtravision are $10 each, pretty good deal if you ask me. You can buy everything you need to make your own from Wal-Mart. They have the 9004-9007 sockets, 12 gauge wire, solder, soldering iron, electrical tape, wire loom, miscellaneous connectors and terminals. I don’t think they have the relays and I know they don’t sell the Xtravisions. I have at least $30 into my harness. If you don’t have a lot of electrical stuff lying around you’re better off buying a ready-made harness. APC sell an upgraded harness for $40 or so.
I drove last night and this morning in the pitch dark. The low beam is much brighter, spreads better, and the cut off is more abrupt. The high beam patter is totally different too. It’s like having high beam and low beam on together. The light is great with visibility much improved. My fog lights are not really needed anymore. I will take beam pattern pictures soon, with a comparison between 9004 and 9007 high and low beam. One huge note is that I’m using 9007 Sylvania Xtravisons that are supposed to be 20% brighter anyway. The color temp is the same as stock but it is much brighter. I do like he color of my 9004 Wagner Truviews but I’m sure they are not as bright as the Xtravisions.
And the pics
This is the driver's side harnes. It shows my plug and play connector using a regular light bulb base.
This is the passenger's side harness. It shows my cover to keep the OEM socket clean. It's another bulb base.
This is the hole where you insert the bulb into the housing. Notice there is only one nub remaining. The other two have been filed off so the 9007 bulb can fit into the hole.
Here are some close ups of the two light bulb bases I modified:
Hot melt glue is my friend.
Beam patter comparison:
On the left a 9007 Sylvania Xtravison with the 12 gauge headlight harness.
On the right a 9004 Wagner Truview with stock headlight harness.
EDIT: 1/30/05
Where to plug in a ready made 9007 harness:
Just remember to swap the stock low beam and ground wires when using this.
EDIT: 7/23/05
This is how I made my harness
No modification to the stock wires is needed. I did not use the diode, so at this time I dont recommend it. I may try it though I dont want to over heat anything. I just included it if any one wants even more light
creating angel eyes
http://www.geocities.com/jvxdriver/eagle_eyes.htm
AE mod head lights
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=52
how to red clear you tails, if you dont want to buy them
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=34
Digital's Cefiro Headlight Clone Mod
http://digital.ic3donline.com/ae-cefiro/
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=81
How to make your clearance lights brighter
Tools:
Phillips head screwdriver
flathead screwdriver
nail clippers
electrical tape
1) Remove the clearance light. This is the hardest part of the entire process. Do it in the sun, so you can see better. Pop the hood and take out that one screw holding in the clearance light. Get a grip of the light on the edge closest to the headlight, and pull it, with flathead screwdriver at the ready. Look into the gap, near the bottom, find the ball and socket joint holding the light in.
Using the flathead, twist and pry the joint apart. It’s a real pain the first time. Take the light out and unclip it.
2) Remove the bulb holder from the housing with a twist. There are instructions right on the holder.
Then twist the bulb out of the holder.3) Look on the sides of the bulb. You should see two nubs. Snip off the one CLOSEST TO THE BULB with the nail clippers.
4) Get a piece of electrical tape and wrap the spot where the old nub was, once around. The tape is so that the bulb fits in snug. It should be above, and not touch the other nub, or it might not work.
5) Look at the bulb socket. There’s one notch for the higher nub and one for the lower nub. We want the lower (existing) nub to go into the HIGHER notch. Make sure you twist it to lock it tight.
6) Done deal. Plug the clearance light back in, and flip on your lights to make sure it worked. If it didn’t, go back and make sure you did everything right. If it turns on, you’re done! Put everything back together and enjoy.
9004 lights to 9007 conversion
Ok this is going to be long so here it goes.
I wanted to change my wimpy 9004 bulbs to 9007. At first glance the bulbs look identical, but in fact they are quite different. The 9004 bulb has a wattage rating of 45 watts on low beam and 65 watts on high beam, where as the 9007 bulbs have 55 watts of low beam power and 65 watts of high beam power. Already we know that the extra 10 watts are going to help. Differences don’t end there. The socket looks the same but the wiring is different. For a 9004 bulb the terminals are high, low, and ground. For a 9007 they are high, ground, and low. Also, the bases have different indents for the nubs that stick out inside the headlight housing. The bulb like a key and it only fits into the headlight one way, and like keys they are not interchangeable. The 9004 bulb won’t fit 9007 housing and vice versa. The upper one is the only one in the same location. Now the biggest and most significant difference is the orientation of the filaments. The 9004 bulb uses transverse filaments meaning they are perpendicular to the bulb base. The 9007 bulb uses axial filaments, meaning they are parallel to the bulb base. Plain and simple the beam patter of a 9007 is superior to the 9004. If you haven’t noticed, Nissan doesn’t use 9004 any more. This should mean something. I should also mention that out 9004 housings were not designed for 9007 bulbs. Now this in a way is a bad thing. We are not getting the full potential out of the much-improved 9007, but the improvement is still very noticeable. Also the output is not uncontrollable like a HID conversion kit, which is actually very dangerous. Our housings cannot be aimed properly and because of this HID retrofits produce terrible oncoming glare. 9007 is the next best thing. Now that you know the story lets get modding.
You can do a basic 9007 install using the stock wiring. First swap the low beam and ground wires on both harnesses. Either pull apart the connector to switch the wires or cut the wires and swap them. The low beam wire is green with a yellow tracer for the driver’s side and blue with a black tracer for the passenger’s side. The ground for both sides is black with white dots. Then file down the two lower nubs on the housing where the bulb goes in. Put the 9007 bulb in and plug it in. Aim if needed. That’s it.
For an upgraded harness you could buy one and modify it slightly for the differences between the 9004 and 9007 wires. Or you can also get more involved by making an upgraded headlight harness. There is a great write up to be found at http://www.geocities.com/craigbrace/. I used these directions for my set up. I have a plug and play set up, meaning no cutting or splicing wires. If I want to I can use 9004 bulbs with the stock wiring at any time. What I did was use an old bulb, took it all apart, and soldered the wires directly to the terminals. This is the harness that triggers the relays: high, low, and ground. Pretty simple but it’s not fun taking apart a bulb. To keep the passenger’s side stock harness clean I used another bulb to make a water tight seal. It’s just the plastic base with the end full of hot melt glue sealing up the holes.
You can do this for the cost of new bulbs. The Xtravision are $10 each, pretty good deal if you ask me. You can buy everything you need to make your own from Wal-Mart. They have the 9004-9007 sockets, 12 gauge wire, solder, soldering iron, electrical tape, wire loom, miscellaneous connectors and terminals. I don’t think they have the relays and I know they don’t sell the Xtravisions. I have at least $30 into my harness. If you don’t have a lot of electrical stuff lying around you’re better off buying a ready-made harness. APC sell an upgraded harness for $40 or so.
I drove last night and this morning in the pitch dark. The low beam is much brighter, spreads better, and the cut off is more abrupt. The high beam patter is totally different too. It’s like having high beam and low beam on together. The light is great with visibility much improved. My fog lights are not really needed anymore. I will take beam pattern pictures soon, with a comparison between 9004 and 9007 high and low beam. One huge note is that I’m using 9007 Sylvania Xtravisons that are supposed to be 20% brighter anyway. The color temp is the same as stock but it is much brighter. I do like he color of my 9004 Wagner Truviews but I’m sure they are not as bright as the Xtravisions.
And the pics
This is the driver's side harnes. It shows my plug and play connector using a regular light bulb base.
This is the passenger's side harness. It shows my cover to keep the OEM socket clean. It's another bulb base.
This is the hole where you insert the bulb into the housing. Notice there is only one nub remaining. The other two have been filed off so the 9007 bulb can fit into the hole.
Here are some close ups of the two light bulb bases I modified:
Hot melt glue is my friend.
Beam patter comparison:
On the left a 9007 Sylvania Xtravison with the 12 gauge headlight harness.
On the right a 9004 Wagner Truview with stock headlight harness.
EDIT: 1/30/05
Where to plug in a ready made 9007 harness:
Just remember to swap the stock low beam and ground wires when using this.
EDIT: 7/23/05
This is how I made my harness
No modification to the stock wires is needed. I did not use the diode, so at this time I dont recommend it. I may try it though I dont want to over heat anything. I just included it if any one wants even more light
creating angel eyes
http://www.geocities.com/jvxdriver/eagle_eyes.htm
AE mod head lights
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=52
how to red clear you tails, if you dont want to buy them
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=34
Digital's Cefiro Headlight Clone Mod
http://digital.ic3donline.com/ae-cefiro/
Engine
How to replace a Water Pump http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=308680
How to Analyize/Reset a Check Engine Light http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931
How to Change Knock Sensor http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
How to Change Engine Oil http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/511
How to Change Engine Coolant http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/502
How to Replace Power Steering Fluid http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/702
How to Replace Fuel Pump http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/fuel%20pump.html
How to Install a Basic UDP http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...ve%20Pulley.htm
How to troubleshoot EGR problems
http://img52.photobucket.com/albums/v158/evilBIGD/EGR/
How to replace drive belts
http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxim...DriveBelts.jpg
How to Change Your Spark Plugs http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=33
How to Install a Mevi (Middle Eastern Variable Intake)http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=40
How to Change Clutch Slave Cylander Hose http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=67
How to Remove/ Replace Your Power Steering http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/702
How to Examine/Change Your Fuel Filter http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/fuelfilter.html
How to Trouble Shoot TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Problems http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html
How to Re-Grease Starter http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
How to Wire Your Cooling Fans For Manual Use http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=129181
How to Install a Pathfinder Throttle Body http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=257931
How to install a stillen SC - http://maxima.ericj.org/doc/scifd.pdf
How to change fuel injectors http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/443899/2
How to change Thermostat - http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=43
How to change timing chain tensioner
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=timing+chain
Power Steering Pump Replacement
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....+Steering+Pump
How To change Motor Mounts:
Holy Lord this isn't an easy job. It only took me 45 minutes to drop the cross member and mounts, but getting everything back together took me nearly 2.5 hours. The problem is that nothing lines up perfectly. My bet is that the rubber in the mounts isn't formed perfectly so whne you reinstall everything, things can be off by 1/8" which is enough to make this job a pita. I had everything in place except one bolt on the front mount where it connects to cross member (more on that later). Here are the tools it took me to get these SOB front and rear engine mounts in place:
1) floor jack
2) two 17mm short sockets
3) ~2.5' of 1/2 extensions
4) 1/2" rachet
5) 18" 1/2" breaker bar
6) jack stands
7) 10mm socket and 1/4" rachet
8) "Bottle" jack http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/mvpbottlejacks.html
9) torque wrench
10) penetrating oil
11) anti-seize
After f-ing around for 3 hours, this is how I made it work.
Installing new engine mounts:
1) Jack the car up, secure with jackstands, and remove the driver's side wheel
2) spray penetrating oil on the bolts and nuts that connect the mount to the engine
3) Using the breaker bar, 2.5' of extension, and a 17mm socket, feed everything through the driver's side wheel well to the rear engine mount bolt and loosen the bolt. This takes some odd leverage and if you're not a decently strong guy, you might be screwed. Also, the amount of extension greatly reduces you're the torque you can generate. You also have to careful and keep the socket on the bolt because the last thing you want to do is strip the head of the bolt. Once the bolt breaks loose, just loosen it, but don't remove. On the rear mount, there is only a bolt. The nut is welded to the "ear" of mount that's connected to the engine block.
4) Using the 10mm socket, remove the two bolts that attach the splash guard to the cross member. Pull the guards down out of the way best you can. They don't need to be removed.
5) Go to the front mount. Using the breaker with a 17mm socket and a rachet with a 17mm socket, break the bolt and nut loose that attaches the mount to the engine. Again, this takes some serious muscle because the leverage is odd and the bolt is on there with ~95 ft/lbs. Again, just loosen this bolt.
6) Take a piece of 2X4 wood and the bottle jack and place the wood between the bottle jack and transmission casing. Jack the tranny up ~1/4". What you are doing is supporting the engine and tranny.
7) Using the breaker bar and a 17mm socket, remove the two front and rear chassis to cross member bolts. Keep the front bolts seperate from the rear bolts BECAUSE THEY ARE DIFFERENT! Something that caught my attention was that these bolts, both front and rear, were only on with about 30 ft/lbs of torque. My Chilton's and FSM both said these bolts are suppose to be torqued to 95 ft/lbs. I'm a bit perplexed at why they were so loose.
8) Once the cross member to chassis bolts are out, wiggle out the mount to engine bolts and nuts, and drop the cross member. It will weigh about ~25lbs.
9) With 17mm sockets on both the breaker bar and rachet, remove the bolts and nuts that connect the mounts to the cross member. There are four of them (two for each mount). Again, leverage of tough and those suckers are torqued to 95 ft/lbs.
10) Install the new mounts to the cross member. Put some anti-seize on the nuts and torque the rear mount bolts/nuts to 75-95 ft/lbs. The reason you use anti-seize is to help the threads stay lubricated and you also get a more accurate torque reading. On the front mount just insert the FRONT bolt into the mount and put the nut (ant-seize it) on finger tight (ie only one of the two bolts on the front mount is attached to the cross member at this time).
11) Lift the cross member into place and slide the rear mount to engine bolt into place and tighten to ~40 ft/lbs.
12) Install the two rear cross member to chassis bolts so that they are slightly tight (~20 ft/lbs, anti-seize them).
13) Slide the front mount to engine bolt into place and finger tightening the nut (anti-seize it).
14) Install the two front cross member to chassis bolts so that they are slighty tight (~20 ft/lbs, anti-seize them).
15) Now the fun part. If your car was like mine, you'll notice that you will not be able to install that front mount to cross member bolt/nut (step 10) because the holes on the mount and cross member don't line up perfectly. Believe me, I tried every different way under the sun to make this work and what I did was the only option on my car. I removed the bottle jack from the tranny (tranny and engine are fully supported by the mounts now) and situated the bottle jack so that it was able to jack up the driver's side lower "ear" of the mount. I slowly jacked up and the mount and cross member holes lined up on that side. The bolt slide through, but now the other side the still wasn't completely lined up and bolt couldn't fully slide through. So I then took my floor jack and used it on the passenger side lower "ear" on the mount. With just some slight jacking, the holes lined up and the bolt slide through. I lowered the jacks and installed the nut (anti-seize it).
I have heard of guys having to enlarge the mount's holes to compensate for this lining up problem. To me, it wasn't an option. I was going to make it work the right way using wrong way methods
16) Now all the bolts/nuts were in place and I began torquing all of them to ~77-95 ft/lbs as called for in the FSM. Seeing that the torque numbers are so high, it appears Nissan thinks that these bolts are very important. I suggest torqueing them right.
17) I reinstalled the 10mm splash guard bolts, put the tire back on, and lowered the car.
18) I started her and took her on a test drive and everything seemed fine. There was a little less vibration and 50% of the drivetrain "slop" was gone. The 7-year old mounts I removed weren't torn, but they were a bit softer than the OEM replacements I installed.
With what I know now, I probably could do this job in about 1.5 hours. Like I said, I tried mutliple ways of getting everything to line up, but no matter what, there was always a hole that wouldn't line up perfectly and let me slide the bolt through. I did all the adjusting and jacking on the front mount because it's easiest to get to manipulate. This method worked for my car, but I have no idea about anyone else's. I'm curious to how Nissan techs get everything to line up.
How to replace a Water Pump http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=308680
How to Analyize/Reset a Check Engine Light http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931
How to Change Knock Sensor http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
How to Change Engine Oil http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/511
How to Change Engine Coolant http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/502
How to Replace Power Steering Fluid http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/702
How to Replace Fuel Pump http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/fuel%20pump.html
How to Install a Basic UDP http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...ve%20Pulley.htm
How to troubleshoot EGR problems
http://img52.photobucket.com/albums/v158/evilBIGD/EGR/
How to replace drive belts
http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxim...DriveBelts.jpg
How to Change Your Spark Plugs http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=33
How to Install a Mevi (Middle Eastern Variable Intake)http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=40
How to Change Clutch Slave Cylander Hose http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=67
How to Remove/ Replace Your Power Steering http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/702
How to Examine/Change Your Fuel Filter http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/fuelfilter.html
How to Trouble Shoot TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Problems http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html
How to Re-Grease Starter http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
How to Wire Your Cooling Fans For Manual Use http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=129181
How to Install a Pathfinder Throttle Body http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=257931
How to install a stillen SC - http://maxima.ericj.org/doc/scifd.pdf
How to change fuel injectors http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/443899/2
How to change Thermostat - http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=43
How to change timing chain tensioner
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=timing+chain
Power Steering Pump Replacement
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....+Steering+Pump
How To change Motor Mounts:
Holy Lord this isn't an easy job. It only took me 45 minutes to drop the cross member and mounts, but getting everything back together took me nearly 2.5 hours. The problem is that nothing lines up perfectly. My bet is that the rubber in the mounts isn't formed perfectly so whne you reinstall everything, things can be off by 1/8" which is enough to make this job a pita. I had everything in place except one bolt on the front mount where it connects to cross member (more on that later). Here are the tools it took me to get these SOB front and rear engine mounts in place:
1) floor jack
2) two 17mm short sockets
3) ~2.5' of 1/2 extensions
4) 1/2" rachet
5) 18" 1/2" breaker bar
6) jack stands
7) 10mm socket and 1/4" rachet
8) "Bottle" jack http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/mvpbottlejacks.html
9) torque wrench
10) penetrating oil
11) anti-seize
After f-ing around for 3 hours, this is how I made it work.
Installing new engine mounts:
1) Jack the car up, secure with jackstands, and remove the driver's side wheel
2) spray penetrating oil on the bolts and nuts that connect the mount to the engine
3) Using the breaker bar, 2.5' of extension, and a 17mm socket, feed everything through the driver's side wheel well to the rear engine mount bolt and loosen the bolt. This takes some odd leverage and if you're not a decently strong guy, you might be screwed. Also, the amount of extension greatly reduces you're the torque you can generate. You also have to careful and keep the socket on the bolt because the last thing you want to do is strip the head of the bolt. Once the bolt breaks loose, just loosen it, but don't remove. On the rear mount, there is only a bolt. The nut is welded to the "ear" of mount that's connected to the engine block.
4) Using the 10mm socket, remove the two bolts that attach the splash guard to the cross member. Pull the guards down out of the way best you can. They don't need to be removed.
5) Go to the front mount. Using the breaker with a 17mm socket and a rachet with a 17mm socket, break the bolt and nut loose that attaches the mount to the engine. Again, this takes some serious muscle because the leverage is odd and the bolt is on there with ~95 ft/lbs. Again, just loosen this bolt.
6) Take a piece of 2X4 wood and the bottle jack and place the wood between the bottle jack and transmission casing. Jack the tranny up ~1/4". What you are doing is supporting the engine and tranny.
7) Using the breaker bar and a 17mm socket, remove the two front and rear chassis to cross member bolts. Keep the front bolts seperate from the rear bolts BECAUSE THEY ARE DIFFERENT! Something that caught my attention was that these bolts, both front and rear, were only on with about 30 ft/lbs of torque. My Chilton's and FSM both said these bolts are suppose to be torqued to 95 ft/lbs. I'm a bit perplexed at why they were so loose.
8) Once the cross member to chassis bolts are out, wiggle out the mount to engine bolts and nuts, and drop the cross member. It will weigh about ~25lbs.
9) With 17mm sockets on both the breaker bar and rachet, remove the bolts and nuts that connect the mounts to the cross member. There are four of them (two for each mount). Again, leverage of tough and those suckers are torqued to 95 ft/lbs.
10) Install the new mounts to the cross member. Put some anti-seize on the nuts and torque the rear mount bolts/nuts to 75-95 ft/lbs. The reason you use anti-seize is to help the threads stay lubricated and you also get a more accurate torque reading. On the front mount just insert the FRONT bolt into the mount and put the nut (ant-seize it) on finger tight (ie only one of the two bolts on the front mount is attached to the cross member at this time).
11) Lift the cross member into place and slide the rear mount to engine bolt into place and tighten to ~40 ft/lbs.
12) Install the two rear cross member to chassis bolts so that they are slightly tight (~20 ft/lbs, anti-seize them).
13) Slide the front mount to engine bolt into place and finger tightening the nut (anti-seize it).
14) Install the two front cross member to chassis bolts so that they are slighty tight (~20 ft/lbs, anti-seize them).
15) Now the fun part. If your car was like mine, you'll notice that you will not be able to install that front mount to cross member bolt/nut (step 10) because the holes on the mount and cross member don't line up perfectly. Believe me, I tried every different way under the sun to make this work and what I did was the only option on my car. I removed the bottle jack from the tranny (tranny and engine are fully supported by the mounts now) and situated the bottle jack so that it was able to jack up the driver's side lower "ear" of the mount. I slowly jacked up and the mount and cross member holes lined up on that side. The bolt slide through, but now the other side the still wasn't completely lined up and bolt couldn't fully slide through. So I then took my floor jack and used it on the passenger side lower "ear" on the mount. With just some slight jacking, the holes lined up and the bolt slide through. I lowered the jacks and installed the nut (anti-seize it).
I have heard of guys having to enlarge the mount's holes to compensate for this lining up problem. To me, it wasn't an option. I was going to make it work the right way using wrong way methods
16) Now all the bolts/nuts were in place and I began torquing all of them to ~77-95 ft/lbs as called for in the FSM. Seeing that the torque numbers are so high, it appears Nissan thinks that these bolts are very important. I suggest torqueing them right.
17) I reinstalled the 10mm splash guard bolts, put the tire back on, and lowered the car.
18) I started her and took her on a test drive and everything seemed fine. There was a little less vibration and 50% of the drivetrain "slop" was gone. The 7-year old mounts I removed weren't torn, but they were a bit softer than the OEM replacements I installed.
With what I know now, I probably could do this job in about 1.5 hours. Like I said, I tried mutliple ways of getting everything to line up, but no matter what, there was always a hole that wouldn't line up perfectly and let me slide the bolt through. I did all the adjusting and jacking on the front mount because it's easiest to get to manipulate. This method worked for my car, but I have no idea about anyone else's. I'm curious to how Nissan techs get everything to line up.
Interior
How to Change your Hazard/Rear Defroster LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/hazard.htm
How to Change your Manual Climate Control LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/climate.htm
How to read your VIN http://www.pbase.com/cleanmaxx_brian/image/19276707
How to stop center pannel squeeks http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=326505
How to install shifter/e-brake boots http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331338
How to remove your door panel (pics currently broken) http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....32#post2815832
How to Remove Guage Needles http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...46&postcount=2
How to change window switches LEDs (new/improved link)
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/479058/3
How to make LED needles http://www.petah.org/maxima/gauge.htm
How to make an LED dome light http://www.petah.org/maxima/dome.htm
How to install autometer gauges http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/gauges.html
How To Change Guage Bulbs -
http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/
also: http://www.richardjasaitis.com/MaximaDash.htm
How to Make Climate Control Lighting Blue http://www.z3d.com/maxima/blueclimate.html
How to Change your Hazard/Rear Defroster LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/hazard.htm
How to Change your Manual Climate Control LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/climate.htm
How to Install an Auto-Dim Mirror http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mirrorinstall/
How to Change Gauge Cluster Lights http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/
How to Change Color of the Clock http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=207107
How to Change Your Ignition Switch http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....gnition+switch
How to Install I30 Interior Accessories http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...t1/index.shtml
How to Always Illuminate Your Clock http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...showpage&pid=8
How to Install Indiglo Gauges http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...showpage&pid=8
How to Install LEDs For Rear Window Switches (original links)
http://www.geocities.com/multiplexor...edinstall.html
How to Maintain/Service Your Sun Roof http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=43
How to Repair Broken Sun Roof
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4&a...age=1&pp=40
How to Paint Dash Center Console Pieces http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=55
How to Install/Change In-Cabin Microfilter http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...er%20Change.htm
How to Change your Hazard/Rear Defroster LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/hazard.htm
How to Change your Manual Climate Control LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/climate.htm
How to read your VIN http://www.pbase.com/cleanmaxx_brian/image/19276707
How to stop center pannel squeeks http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=326505
How to install shifter/e-brake boots http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331338
How to remove your door panel (pics currently broken) http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....32#post2815832
How to Remove Guage Needles http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...46&postcount=2
How to change window switches LEDs (new/improved link)
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/479058/3
How to make LED needles http://www.petah.org/maxima/gauge.htm
How to make an LED dome light http://www.petah.org/maxima/dome.htm
How to install autometer gauges http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/gauges.html
How To Change Guage Bulbs -
http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/
also: http://www.richardjasaitis.com/MaximaDash.htm
How to Make Climate Control Lighting Blue http://www.z3d.com/maxima/blueclimate.html
How to Change your Hazard/Rear Defroster LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/hazard.htm
How to Change your Manual Climate Control LEDs http://www.petah.org/maxima/climate.htm
How to Install an Auto-Dim Mirror http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mirrorinstall/
How to Change Gauge Cluster Lights http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/
How to Change Color of the Clock http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=207107
How to Change Your Ignition Switch http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....gnition+switch
How to Install I30 Interior Accessories http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...t1/index.shtml
How to Always Illuminate Your Clock http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...showpage&pid=8
How to Install Indiglo Gauges http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...showpage&pid=8
How to Install LEDs For Rear Window Switches (original links)
http://www.geocities.com/multiplexor...edinstall.html
How to Maintain/Service Your Sun Roof http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=43
How to Repair Broken Sun Roof
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4&a...age=1&pp=40
How to Paint Dash Center Console Pieces http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=55
How to Install/Change In-Cabin Microfilter http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...er%20Change.htm
Exterior
How to Make a Mesh Grill for a 97-99 http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=38
How to Install an "Ionic" Body Kit http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=51
How to make your door pillars the color of your car http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....6&a...age=1&pp=30
How to Debadge Your Maxima http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=258753
How to convert 95/96 to 97-99 Front end -
Bumper:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=46513
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=17750
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=88129
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=88129
Headlights:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=21563
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=89942
Grill:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=10646
Rear end:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=42806
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=73032
How to make a mesh grill for 95-96 http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=275284
How to repair your broken sun roof http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4&a...age=1&pp=40
How to paint your wheels (shown on stock rims) http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=17
another one http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=446094
How To Install 2001 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ Spoiler http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...19&postcount=1
How to Polish Your Rims
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=804963
how to remove black plastic from b pillar
tools you'll need:
razor blade
heat gun
goo gone
wax
use a heat gun to heat up the black plastic and then use a razor blade to lift up on a corner be careful not to cut into the paint.
after you get all the plastic off use goo gone to remove all the extra glue from the plastic
next wax it and you're all done
How to replace a broken antenna mast
http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Nissan/Maxima.html
How to Make a Mesh Grill for a 97-99 http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=38
How to Install an "Ionic" Body Kit http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=51
How to make your door pillars the color of your car http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....6&a...age=1&pp=30
How to Debadge Your Maxima http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=258753
How to convert 95/96 to 97-99 Front end -
Bumper:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=46513
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=17750
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=88129
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=88129
Headlights:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=21563
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=89942
Grill:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=10646
Rear end:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=42806
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=73032
How to make a mesh grill for 95-96 http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=275284
How to repair your broken sun roof http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4&a...age=1&pp=40
How to paint your wheels (shown on stock rims) http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=17
another one http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=446094
How To Install 2001 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ Spoiler http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...19&postcount=1
How to Polish Your Rims
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=804963
how to remove black plastic from b pillar
tools you'll need:
razor blade
heat gun
goo gone
wax
use a heat gun to heat up the black plastic and then use a razor blade to lift up on a corner be careful not to cut into the paint.
after you get all the plastic off use goo gone to remove all the extra glue from the plastic
next wax it and you're all done
How to replace a broken antenna mast
http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Nissan/Maxima.html
Brakes
How to break in brakes http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
How to Change Front Brakes http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
How to Fix Parking Brake http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303
How to Paint Your Calipers http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/caliperpainting/
How to Install Stainless Steel Brakelines http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...es/index.shtml
How to Add Speed Bleeders http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...eedBleeders.htm
How to break in brakes http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
How to Change Front Brakes http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
How to Fix Parking Brake http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303
How to Paint Your Calipers http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/caliperpainting/
How to Install Stainless Steel Brakelines http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...es/index.shtml
How to Add Speed Bleeders http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...eedBleeders.htm
Handling
How to install Koni adjustable struts http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/koni.html
How to Change Shocks
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/shocks.html
How to Remove/Replace Your Front Wheel Bearing
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/704
How to Fix Your Front Strut Bearing
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
How to Install Front and Rear Strut Bars http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...rs/index.shtml
How to Install Koni Front Inserts http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=10
How to Install ADDCO RSB http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=12
How to Measure Your Tires http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/900
How to Change Shocks And Struts http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...x/springs.html
How to make a rear strut bar brace http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=321967
Kevlo911's Steering Rack Replacement How-To
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=473923
How to install Koni adjustable struts http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/koni.html
How to Change Shocks
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/shocks.html
How to Remove/Replace Your Front Wheel Bearing
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/704
How to Fix Your Front Strut Bearing
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
How to Install Front and Rear Strut Bars http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...rs/index.shtml
How to Install Koni Front Inserts http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=10
How to Install ADDCO RSB http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=12
How to Measure Your Tires http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/900
How to Change Shocks And Struts http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...x/springs.html
How to make a rear strut bar brace http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=321967
Kevlo911's Steering Rack Replacement How-To
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=473923
Exhaust
How to install y-pipe http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=255278&page=3
How to Install a B Pipe http://greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/19...sy%20B-Pipe.htm
Intake
How to Clean Throttle Body
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517
How to Make/Install Intake
http://www.brianv.net/mods/filter
How to Install a Place Racing CAI
http://www.geocities.com/nismorg/Maxima/cai.html
How to Make a OSCAI
http://maxima.cardomain.com/memberpage/419549/5
How to Make Poorman's CAI/Hacked air box
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=181899
2nd Link http://maxima.cardomain.com/memberpage/370660/7
Upstream O2 sensors:
Necessary tools:
*3/8" drive ratchet
*16mm O2 sensor removal ratchet (rent it from Autozone for free)
*OEM upstream O2 sensor(s)
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors
1. Put the front end of the car on ramps or jackstands
2. Spray the O2 sensors with PB blaster (or other lubricant) to make removal easier; wait ten minutes.
3. Using the O2 sensor ratchet attachment, loosen the current O2 sensors that are installed in the "Y" portion of the Y-pipe
4. Trace the sensor harness up to the engine bay and unplug it. One will be close to the cabin, to the left of the spark plugs; the other will be clipped by the radiator, towards the front of the car
5. Cut the plastic things holding the harness; there will be multiple ones
6. Completely unscrew the O2 sensors
7. Plug in the new sensors to the now-empty connectors that the old sensors were attached to
8. Dangle the sensor from the engine bay to the underbody of the car, taking care to do it SLOWLY so you don't damage the sensor
9. Put a little anti-seize on the threads of the sensors (if there isn’t any already)
10. Screw 'em in and you're done.
Downstream O2 sensor:
Necessary tools:
*12mm wrench
*OEM downstream O2 sensor
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors
1. Put the rear end of the car on ramps or jackstands
2. Locate the downstream O2 sensor; it is in rear-half the catalytic converter, on the driver’s side (middle of the car is where you should be looking)
3. Spray the sensor with PB Blaster or WD40
4. Trace the harness to the underbody of the car
5. Pull on the harness until the rubber seal pops free
6. Disconnect the old sensor from the harness
7. Apply anti-seize to the new O2 sensor (if it doesn’t already have some); take care not to get the compound on the sensor head
8. Screw in the sensor
9. Connect the new sensor to the harness
10. Jam the excess wiring back into the hole and close it up with the rubber seal
11. Using one of the supplied zip ties, secure any slack wiring
How to install y-pipe http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=255278&page=3
How to Install a B Pipe http://greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/19...sy%20B-Pipe.htm
Intake
How to Clean Throttle Body
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517
How to Make/Install Intake
http://www.brianv.net/mods/filter
How to Install a Place Racing CAI
http://www.geocities.com/nismorg/Maxima/cai.html
How to Make a OSCAI
http://maxima.cardomain.com/memberpage/419549/5
How to Make Poorman's CAI/Hacked air box
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=181899
2nd Link http://maxima.cardomain.com/memberpage/370660/7
Upstream O2 sensors:
Necessary tools:
*3/8" drive ratchet
*16mm O2 sensor removal ratchet (rent it from Autozone for free)
*OEM upstream O2 sensor(s)
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors
1. Put the front end of the car on ramps or jackstands
2. Spray the O2 sensors with PB blaster (or other lubricant) to make removal easier; wait ten minutes.
3. Using the O2 sensor ratchet attachment, loosen the current O2 sensors that are installed in the "Y" portion of the Y-pipe
4. Trace the sensor harness up to the engine bay and unplug it. One will be close to the cabin, to the left of the spark plugs; the other will be clipped by the radiator, towards the front of the car
5. Cut the plastic things holding the harness; there will be multiple ones
6. Completely unscrew the O2 sensors
7. Plug in the new sensors to the now-empty connectors that the old sensors were attached to
8. Dangle the sensor from the engine bay to the underbody of the car, taking care to do it SLOWLY so you don't damage the sensor
9. Put a little anti-seize on the threads of the sensors (if there isn’t any already)
10. Screw 'em in and you're done.
Downstream O2 sensor:
Necessary tools:
*12mm wrench
*OEM downstream O2 sensor
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors
1. Put the rear end of the car on ramps or jackstands
2. Locate the downstream O2 sensor; it is in rear-half the catalytic converter, on the driver’s side (middle of the car is where you should be looking)
3. Spray the sensor with PB Blaster or WD40
4. Trace the harness to the underbody of the car
5. Pull on the harness until the rubber seal pops free
6. Disconnect the old sensor from the harness
7. Apply anti-seize to the new O2 sensor (if it doesn’t already have some); take care not to get the compound on the sensor head
8. Screw in the sensor
9. Connect the new sensor to the harness
10. Jam the excess wiring back into the hole and close it up with the rubber seal
11. Using one of the supplied zip ties, secure any slack wiring
Drivetrain/ Transmission
How To change Motor Mounts http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=10
How to cheaply improve manual shifter feeling http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331517
How to Fix CV Joints http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
How to Change/Replace Your Clutch http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/801
How to Remove/Rebuild Your Tranny (5 Speed) http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/805
How to Install a Short Throw Shifter http://www.vbxmaxima.8m.com/shifter.html
How to Install Hayden Transmission Cooler http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...er/index.shtml
How to Convet Your Auto to 5 Speed (pretty serious and involved) http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=30
How to Install a Valve Body http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=60
Auto to 5spd swap!
http://www.fastmaxima.com/5spd_conversion.htm
How To change Motor Mounts http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=10
How to cheaply improve manual shifter feeling http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331517
How to Fix CV Joints http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
How to Change/Replace Your Clutch http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/801
How to Remove/Rebuild Your Tranny (5 Speed) http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/805
How to Install a Short Throw Shifter http://www.vbxmaxima.8m.com/shifter.html
How to Install Hayden Transmission Cooler http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...er/index.shtml
How to Convet Your Auto to 5 Speed (pretty serious and involved) http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=30
How to Install a Valve Body http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=60
Auto to 5spd swap!
http://www.fastmaxima.com/5spd_conversion.htm
Electrical
How to add an AUX input to your stock bose headunit
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=4083400
How to fix a non-working Bose display, and trouble shoot general issues (95-96) http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/fixes.html
How to replace 95-96 O2 sensors (upstream and downstream) http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=24
How to activate the Low Washer Fluid light (for cars without cold/deluxe packages) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/259701/13
How to change alternator http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/500
How to Fix Starter Noise http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
How to make your cruise control always ready http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...showpage&pid=4
and http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=37016
How to Install a Glass/Shock Sensor to Stock Alarm http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=13
How to Remove Your Top Speed Limiter http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=15
2nd link http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/bensecumod.htm
How to Remove Your Rear Speakers http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=16
How to Make Your Sun Roof One Touch Open http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=17
How to Make Your Wipers Variable Intermittent http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=19
How to Make Your Alarm Beep http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=39
How to dissasemble your Bose Headunit (95-96) http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/bose.html
How to Add an Air Horn to Your Car http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...max/horns.html
How to set up Home Link http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=320939
How to remove your ECU/PCM
Necessary tools:
*Phillips offset screwdriver
*Pliers
*10mm ratchet (any size drive)
1. Disconnect the negative terminal of your car battery.
2. Remove the plastic covers that protect the ECU; the driver-side cover is to the right of the accelerator. These are secured by two plastic screws and should pop right off.
3. Using a 10mm ratchet, remove the bolt on the passenger side that is securing all the cabling to the ECU
4. Once the bolt is removed, you can detach the cables from the ECU
5. There are four, round, Phillips-head screws that are securing the ECU to the mounting bracket. They can be found in each corner. Due to the close quarters, a standard screwdriver will not work here. Using an offset screwdriver (99 cents at Sears) and a pair of pliers, remove each screw (this step will consume the better part of an hour).
6. Slide the ECU out by pushing from the driver side to the passenger side.
How to Program OEM Alarm Key Fob Remote
To program the remote(s) follow this procedure
1. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.
2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and the original codes will be cleared.
3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.
4. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time, the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice.
For additional remotes continue below else go to step 9
5. If you need to activate additional remote controllers, manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock knob.
6. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.
7. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and additional remote is programmed.
8. For additional remotes, go back to step 5.
9. Open driver's door to exit programming state when done.
NOTE: Only a maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.
air bag light
IF YOUR AIRBAG LIGHT IS FLASHING WHILE YOU DRIVE 9 times out of 10 it is the passenger seat side air bag...the one that is inside of the seat...what you need to do is the following:
Open your door and first locate the button on pillar A....this little button is the drivers door switch and when the door is closed the button is pressed in making the car know that the door is actually closed....it is a small button with black rubber surrounding it. Once you locate it, turn your key to the ON position....DO NOT start the car...simply turn the power on so the engine light, battery and everything else is lit without engaging the ignition. Then with the key in the ON position press the drivers door switch at least 10 times within 10 seconds with your finger: in and out in and out fast......then once you have done that turn your key to the OFF position....when i did this I found it easy to turn the key half way between where you take it out and half way between ACC so nothing should be getting power...not even the radio but you should also not be able to pull the key out. Then close your door and with the key in that same position, between taking it out and ACC, start the car by turning it towards the ignition. This means don't take the key outta the ignition the whole time.
If you have a 99 9/10 it is the passenger SEAT airbag....the one that is actually in the seat and Nissan will try to tell you it is faulty but by doing this you will engage the system so it will work again. I know people that have had the seat air bag repaired and then the light has come on within a year. If it was the airbag that was in the dash I would say get it fixed but with it being a seat air bag even if it doesn't work the rest of the system will. Same thing happened to me and I got it diagnosed luckily for free at the dealership but then did the thing above and it hasn't come back on in over a year and a half. A lot of times they said it could be caused by a passenger having their feat under the seat where the air bag components are.
How to verify if your coil packs work!
Engine worked with: 1996 maxima
Requires: An ohmmeter (cheap purchase at radio shack....)
Conditions: Make sure your engine is cold, or it'll be hot on your hands
you have 6 Ignition coil packs. 3 up front and 3 near your firewall. (when asking for new ones, they are referred to as L and R)
3 are hidden behind the plastic piece on your engine that says NISSAN... simply remove the bolts and remove the plastic piece.
once removed, you should see 3 coil packs. un plug and test them one at a time.
I won't go into how to remove them since it should be fairly obvious Simply remove both bolts (do one coil pack at a time...) and pull the coil pack out. i had one where it was very hard to get out... so you may have to pull hard...
Once out, look at the area where you removed the electrical plug. You should see a "+" on the back end of the electrical plug. There should also be the letter "B"....
the spot where you see the positive symbol, means that's prong number one on the electrical connector.
To test:
Turn on your ohmmeter and place the positive wire on the 1st prong in the electrical plug of the coil pack. The negative wire should be touching the middle prong. Verification of the ohmmeter at this time should say "0" aka infinite... if it's anything else, the pack should be changed. Next test: reverse the wires... positive on the middle prong and negative on the 1st prong.... on a new coil pack, it should give a value of approximately 1.3-1.7 mega ohms. If any of the readings are off, replace the coil pack.
Note: Firewall coil packs are extremely easy to find, simply look in the cracks of the intake header. you'll see 3 similar looking coil packs to the front ones. The exception with these is that they are longer and look a slight bit different. removal is the same process as the front coil packs. Simply pay special attention to not dropping the screws in the intake area... it'll be hard to get out
to test: follow the front coil pack testing method. Look for the Positive symbol, this is your first prong... and go from there.
Good luck...
Alarm Beep Mod
http://www.firealarmdesign.com/alarmbeep.htm
How to add an AUX input to your stock bose headunit
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=4083400
How to fix a non-working Bose display, and trouble shoot general issues (95-96) http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/fixes.html
How to replace 95-96 O2 sensors (upstream and downstream) http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=24
How to activate the Low Washer Fluid light (for cars without cold/deluxe packages) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/259701/13
How to change alternator http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/500
How to Fix Starter Noise http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
How to make your cruise control always ready http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...showpage&pid=4
and http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=37016
How to Install a Glass/Shock Sensor to Stock Alarm http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=13
How to Remove Your Top Speed Limiter http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=15
2nd link http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/bensecumod.htm
How to Remove Your Rear Speakers http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=16
How to Make Your Sun Roof One Touch Open http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=17
How to Make Your Wipers Variable Intermittent http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=19
How to Make Your Alarm Beep http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=39
How to dissasemble your Bose Headunit (95-96) http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/bose.html
How to Add an Air Horn to Your Car http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...max/horns.html
How to set up Home Link http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=320939
How to remove your ECU/PCM
Necessary tools:
*Phillips offset screwdriver
*Pliers
*10mm ratchet (any size drive)
1. Disconnect the negative terminal of your car battery.
2. Remove the plastic covers that protect the ECU; the driver-side cover is to the right of the accelerator. These are secured by two plastic screws and should pop right off.
3. Using a 10mm ratchet, remove the bolt on the passenger side that is securing all the cabling to the ECU
4. Once the bolt is removed, you can detach the cables from the ECU
5. There are four, round, Phillips-head screws that are securing the ECU to the mounting bracket. They can be found in each corner. Due to the close quarters, a standard screwdriver will not work here. Using an offset screwdriver (99 cents at Sears) and a pair of pliers, remove each screw (this step will consume the better part of an hour).
6. Slide the ECU out by pushing from the driver side to the passenger side.
How to Program OEM Alarm Key Fob Remote
To program the remote(s) follow this procedure
1. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.
2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and the original codes will be cleared.
3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.
4. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time, the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice.
For additional remotes continue below else go to step 9
5. If you need to activate additional remote controllers, manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock knob.
6. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.
7. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and additional remote is programmed.
8. For additional remotes, go back to step 5.
9. Open driver's door to exit programming state when done.
NOTE: Only a maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.
air bag light
IF YOUR AIRBAG LIGHT IS FLASHING WHILE YOU DRIVE 9 times out of 10 it is the passenger seat side air bag...the one that is inside of the seat...what you need to do is the following:
Open your door and first locate the button on pillar A....this little button is the drivers door switch and when the door is closed the button is pressed in making the car know that the door is actually closed....it is a small button with black rubber surrounding it. Once you locate it, turn your key to the ON position....DO NOT start the car...simply turn the power on so the engine light, battery and everything else is lit without engaging the ignition. Then with the key in the ON position press the drivers door switch at least 10 times within 10 seconds with your finger: in and out in and out fast......then once you have done that turn your key to the OFF position....when i did this I found it easy to turn the key half way between where you take it out and half way between ACC so nothing should be getting power...not even the radio but you should also not be able to pull the key out. Then close your door and with the key in that same position, between taking it out and ACC, start the car by turning it towards the ignition. This means don't take the key outta the ignition the whole time.
If you have a 99 9/10 it is the passenger SEAT airbag....the one that is actually in the seat and Nissan will try to tell you it is faulty but by doing this you will engage the system so it will work again. I know people that have had the seat air bag repaired and then the light has come on within a year. If it was the airbag that was in the dash I would say get it fixed but with it being a seat air bag even if it doesn't work the rest of the system will. Same thing happened to me and I got it diagnosed luckily for free at the dealership but then did the thing above and it hasn't come back on in over a year and a half. A lot of times they said it could be caused by a passenger having their feat under the seat where the air bag components are.
How to verify if your coil packs work!
Engine worked with: 1996 maxima
Requires: An ohmmeter (cheap purchase at radio shack....)
Conditions: Make sure your engine is cold, or it'll be hot on your hands
you have 6 Ignition coil packs. 3 up front and 3 near your firewall. (when asking for new ones, they are referred to as L and R)
3 are hidden behind the plastic piece on your engine that says NISSAN... simply remove the bolts and remove the plastic piece.
once removed, you should see 3 coil packs. un plug and test them one at a time.
I won't go into how to remove them since it should be fairly obvious Simply remove both bolts (do one coil pack at a time...) and pull the coil pack out. i had one where it was very hard to get out... so you may have to pull hard...
Once out, look at the area where you removed the electrical plug. You should see a "+" on the back end of the electrical plug. There should also be the letter "B"....
the spot where you see the positive symbol, means that's prong number one on the electrical connector.
To test:
Turn on your ohmmeter and place the positive wire on the 1st prong in the electrical plug of the coil pack. The negative wire should be touching the middle prong. Verification of the ohmmeter at this time should say "0" aka infinite... if it's anything else, the pack should be changed. Next test: reverse the wires... positive on the middle prong and negative on the 1st prong.... on a new coil pack, it should give a value of approximately 1.3-1.7 mega ohms. If any of the readings are off, replace the coil pack.
Note: Firewall coil packs are extremely easy to find, simply look in the cracks of the intake header. you'll see 3 similar looking coil packs to the front ones. The exception with these is that they are longer and look a slight bit different. removal is the same process as the front coil packs. Simply pay special attention to not dropping the screws in the intake area... it'll be hard to get out
to test: follow the front coil pack testing method. Look for the Positive symbol, this is your first prong... and go from there.
Good luck...
Alarm Beep Mod
http://www.firealarmdesign.com/alarmbeep.htm
top OFF a/c ?
First off, a warning - if you need to add R-134a to your car it's probably because of a leak. Leaks can leak oil as well as R-134a, so by continually topping up you could be signalling an early end for your compressor as it will run out of lubrication. Topping up the a/c may or may not work for you, and not being a bit careful can make it worse. The best fix is to find the leak, fix it, evacuate and recharge the system. However since most people can't refuse a 10 buck refill kit, the instructions below assume that.
End of warning.....
Our maximas contain an ideal charge of 1.41 lbs (plus or minus 0.11 lbs) of R-134a - often referred to as "freon", but freon is actually the older refigerant R-12 that was phased out in the early nineties due to its ozone-depleting characteristics. 1.41 lbs is just under two 12oz cans. So never add more than two cans to the system.
Assuming everything else in the system is OK, the goal is to refill to around 1.4 lbs of R-134a in the system. How can that be done? It can't accurately be done by pressure, and especially not by low side pressure. Those top-up kits that come with just a low side gauge give you no idea about how much R-134a is in the system and are not accurate, so if you think you need just a top-up don't bother buying one* (explanation at the bottom for those interested).
Manifold gauges on the other hand that show low and high side pressure can get you into the right area because the high side pressure is a better indicator of how much refrigerant you have. In general, it should be somewhere around 2.25 - 2.75 the ambient temperature depending on humidity, engine temperature and other environmental influences. These gauges are required if you'll ever properly service your a/c system yourself because you can attach a vacuum pump to them.
The final, and often overlooked thing to check is the vent temperature. In my opinion this is actually the most important. Even if you don't have any gauges, the vent temperature is an obvious indicator of performance - a cool cabin is what we're looking for after all. If the refrigerant level is too low or too high, the system performance is adversely affected and the temperature goes up, so do the following:
1. Set the engine to 1500 RPM, blower on full cold, windows down.
2. Insert thermometer in center vent. Check temperature.
3. Attach can to the charging hose. Don't connect the fitting to the low side port yet.
4. Open the can tap for a couple of seconds to purge all of the air out of the charging hose - you don't want to force air into your system.
5. Close can tap and connect hose to low side port.
6. Holding the can UPRIGHT, open the tap for five seconds or so, then close again.
7. Wait for at least a minute and check vent temperature.
8. Repeat 6 and 7 until the air is coming out cold (on a 95 degree day the best I could get from mine was about 50). If you notice the temperature starting to go up again, wait another minute and re-check. If it's still high, you may have overcharged.
A word on refrigerant types - don't be tempted by cans with "oil", "leak stop" or "performance additive". Leak stop may prevent an a/c shop from fixing your system down the road because it ruins their expensive machines - expect paying extra to clean up your system before they can even make a start if that's the case. Oil is not recommended because it's the wrong type and you've got no idea how much you've lost. Having a system with too much oil in it harms performance, but this is your call - if you're really worried about oil level you should have it fixed properly.
* Low side only gauges
The maxima compressor contains a variable displacement unit that does not cycle on or off during normal operation. It maintains a constant low side pressure as best it can no matter how much refrigerant is in the system. This is why you can go from an undercharge to an overcharge condition without seeing any noticeable change in the low side. They're also not very accurate, so may do you more harm than good. They may, however, show a serious undercharge. Also, a pressure much above 45-50 points to a serious overcharge, air in the system, or a weak compressor.
First off, a warning - if you need to add R-134a to your car it's probably because of a leak. Leaks can leak oil as well as R-134a, so by continually topping up you could be signalling an early end for your compressor as it will run out of lubrication. Topping up the a/c may or may not work for you, and not being a bit careful can make it worse. The best fix is to find the leak, fix it, evacuate and recharge the system. However since most people can't refuse a 10 buck refill kit, the instructions below assume that.
End of warning.....
Our maximas contain an ideal charge of 1.41 lbs (plus or minus 0.11 lbs) of R-134a - often referred to as "freon", but freon is actually the older refigerant R-12 that was phased out in the early nineties due to its ozone-depleting characteristics. 1.41 lbs is just under two 12oz cans. So never add more than two cans to the system.
Assuming everything else in the system is OK, the goal is to refill to around 1.4 lbs of R-134a in the system. How can that be done? It can't accurately be done by pressure, and especially not by low side pressure. Those top-up kits that come with just a low side gauge give you no idea about how much R-134a is in the system and are not accurate, so if you think you need just a top-up don't bother buying one* (explanation at the bottom for those interested).
Manifold gauges on the other hand that show low and high side pressure can get you into the right area because the high side pressure is a better indicator of how much refrigerant you have. In general, it should be somewhere around 2.25 - 2.75 the ambient temperature depending on humidity, engine temperature and other environmental influences. These gauges are required if you'll ever properly service your a/c system yourself because you can attach a vacuum pump to them.
The final, and often overlooked thing to check is the vent temperature. In my opinion this is actually the most important. Even if you don't have any gauges, the vent temperature is an obvious indicator of performance - a cool cabin is what we're looking for after all. If the refrigerant level is too low or too high, the system performance is adversely affected and the temperature goes up, so do the following:
1. Set the engine to 1500 RPM, blower on full cold, windows down.
2. Insert thermometer in center vent. Check temperature.
3. Attach can to the charging hose. Don't connect the fitting to the low side port yet.
4. Open the can tap for a couple of seconds to purge all of the air out of the charging hose - you don't want to force air into your system.
5. Close can tap and connect hose to low side port.
6. Holding the can UPRIGHT, open the tap for five seconds or so, then close again.
7. Wait for at least a minute and check vent temperature.
8. Repeat 6 and 7 until the air is coming out cold (on a 95 degree day the best I could get from mine was about 50). If you notice the temperature starting to go up again, wait another minute and re-check. If it's still high, you may have overcharged.
A word on refrigerant types - don't be tempted by cans with "oil", "leak stop" or "performance additive". Leak stop may prevent an a/c shop from fixing your system down the road because it ruins their expensive machines - expect paying extra to clean up your system before they can even make a start if that's the case. Oil is not recommended because it's the wrong type and you've got no idea how much you've lost. Having a system with too much oil in it harms performance, but this is your call - if you're really worried about oil level you should have it fixed properly.
* Low side only gauges
The maxima compressor contains a variable displacement unit that does not cycle on or off during normal operation. It maintains a constant low side pressure as best it can no matter how much refrigerant is in the system. This is why you can go from an undercharge to an overcharge condition without seeing any noticeable change in the low side. They're also not very accurate, so may do you more harm than good. They may, however, show a serious undercharge. Also, a pressure much above 45-50 points to a serious overcharge, air in the system, or a weak compressor.
These are all the Code Scanner Codes Converted fron the Haynes ManualScan Tool Trouble Code --- Check Engine Light flash code
P0000 --- 0505
P0100 --- 0102
P0105 --- 0803
P0110 --- 0401
P0115 --- 0103
P0120 --- 0403
P0125 --- 0908
P0130 --- 0307
P0130 --- 0503
P0131 --- 0411
P0132 --- 0410
P0133 --- 0409
P0134 --- 0412
P0135 --- 0901
P0136 --- 0707
P0137 --- 0511
P0138 --- 0510
P0139 --- 0707
P0140 --- 0512
P0141 --- 0902
P0150 --- 0303
P0151 --- 0308
P0152 --- 0415
P0153 --- 0414
P0154 --- 0413
P0155 --- 1001
P0157 --- 0314
P0158 --- 0313
P0159 --- 0708
P0160 --- 0315
P0161 --- 1002
P0170 --- 0706
P0171 --- 0115
P0172 --- 0114
P0173 --- 0806
P0174 --- 0210
P0175 --- 0209
P0180 --- 0402
P0300 --- 0701
P0301 --- 0608
P0302 --- 0607
P0303 --- 0606
P0304 --- 0605
P0305 --- 0604
P0306 --- 0603
P0325 --- 0304
P0335 --- 0802
P0340 --- 0101
P0400 --- 0302
P0402 --- 0306
P0403 --- 0515
P0420 --- 0702
P0430 --- 0703
P0440 --- 0705
P0443 --- 0807
P0443 --- 1008
P0446 --- 0903
P0450 --- 0704
P0500 --- 0104
P0505 --- 0205
P0510 --- 0203
P0600 --- 0504
P0605 --- 0301
P0705 --- 1003
P0705 --- 1101
P0710 --- 1208
P0720 --- 1102
P0725 --- 1207
P0731 --- 1103
P0732 --- 1104
P0733 --- 1105
P0734 --- 1106
P0740 --- 1204
P0744 --- 1107
P0745 --- 1205
P0750 --- 1108
P0755 --- 1201
P1105 --- 1302
P1148 --- 0307
P1168 --- 0308
P1220 --- 1305
P1320 --- 0201
P1335 --- 0407
P1336 --- 0905
P1400 --- 1005
P1401 --- 0305
P1402 --- 0514
P1440 --- 0213
P1441 --- 0801
P1444 --- 0214
P1445 --- 1008
P1446 --- 0215
P1447 --- 0111
P1448 --- 0309
P1490 --- 0801
P1491 --- 0311
P1492 --- 0807
P1493 --- 0312
P1605 --- 0804
P1705 --- 1206
P1706 --- 1003
P1760 --- 1203
P1900 --- 0208
P1900 --- 1308
P0000 --- 0505
P0100 --- 0102
P0105 --- 0803
P0110 --- 0401
P0115 --- 0103
P0120 --- 0403
P0125 --- 0908
P0130 --- 0307
P0130 --- 0503
P0131 --- 0411
P0132 --- 0410
P0133 --- 0409
P0134 --- 0412
P0135 --- 0901
P0136 --- 0707
P0137 --- 0511
P0138 --- 0510
P0139 --- 0707
P0140 --- 0512
P0141 --- 0902
P0150 --- 0303
P0151 --- 0308
P0152 --- 0415
P0153 --- 0414
P0154 --- 0413
P0155 --- 1001
P0157 --- 0314
P0158 --- 0313
P0159 --- 0708
P0160 --- 0315
P0161 --- 1002
P0170 --- 0706
P0171 --- 0115
P0172 --- 0114
P0173 --- 0806
P0174 --- 0210
P0175 --- 0209
P0180 --- 0402
P0300 --- 0701
P0301 --- 0608
P0302 --- 0607
P0303 --- 0606
P0304 --- 0605
P0305 --- 0604
P0306 --- 0603
P0325 --- 0304
P0335 --- 0802
P0340 --- 0101
P0400 --- 0302
P0402 --- 0306
P0403 --- 0515
P0420 --- 0702
P0430 --- 0703
P0440 --- 0705
P0443 --- 0807
P0443 --- 1008
P0446 --- 0903
P0450 --- 0704
P0500 --- 0104
P0505 --- 0205
P0510 --- 0203
P0600 --- 0504
P0605 --- 0301
P0705 --- 1003
P0705 --- 1101
P0710 --- 1208
P0720 --- 1102
P0725 --- 1207
P0731 --- 1103
P0732 --- 1104
P0733 --- 1105
P0734 --- 1106
P0740 --- 1204
P0744 --- 1107
P0745 --- 1205
P0750 --- 1108
P0755 --- 1201
P1105 --- 1302
P1148 --- 0307
P1168 --- 0308
P1220 --- 1305
P1320 --- 0201
P1335 --- 0407
P1336 --- 0905
P1400 --- 1005
P1401 --- 0305
P1402 --- 0514
P1440 --- 0213
P1441 --- 0801
P1444 --- 0214
P1445 --- 1008
P1446 --- 0215
P1447 --- 0111
P1448 --- 0309
P1490 --- 0801
P1491 --- 0311
P1492 --- 0807
P1493 --- 0312
P1605 --- 0804
P1705 --- 1206
P1706 --- 1003
P1760 --- 1203
P1900 --- 0208
P1900 --- 1308
DBM ECU CODES
(All May or May not be Definded By Daniel B. Martin)
0101
My book says DTC 0101 is caused by the Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase). This sensor is located on the engine front cover facing the camshaft sprocket. It detects the cylinder number signal. The Engine Control Module uses this signal to control spark plug firing order and also to sequence the fuel injectors correctly. If the CPS is bad the ECM will fire the plugs at the wrong time, or not fire them at all. This would account for a no-fire symptom.
0102
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0102 points to a problem with the Mass Air Flow Sensor. The MAFS is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. It consists of a thin film that is supplied with electric current from the Engine Control Module. The temperature of the hot film is controlled by the ECM a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss. Therefore, the ECM must supply more electric current to the hot film as air flow increases. This maintains the temperature of the hot film. The ECM detects the air flow by means of this current change.
This malfunction is detected when an out-of-range voltage is sent to the ECM. That voltage might be too high or too low.
a) An excessively high voltage from the MAFS is sent when the engine is not running.
An excessively high voltage from the MAFS is sent under light load driving conditions.
Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Faulty MAFS
c) An excessively low voltage from the MAFS is sent when the engine is not running.
d) An excessively low voltage from the MAFS is sent under heavy load driving conditions.
Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Intake air leaks
- Faulty MAFS
With DTC 0102 the ECM is supposed to switch into Fail Safe mode and limit engine speed to 2400 rpm.
0103
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)
0104
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0104 points to a problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor or the associated wiring.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor installed on the transaxle. The part inside the transaxle has a plastic gear which is driven by the internal parts of the transaxle. The part outside is a signal generator which produces a square wave of amplitude 5.2 volts and frequency proportional to vehicle speed.
Remove the VSS, attach a voltmeter to the electric leads, and spin the gear
by hand. If you get zero volts, it's dead.
One owner discovered his VSS was not fully seated in the transaxle. He just tapped it inward, and retightened the 10mm mounting bolt.
For more information please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-22) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-16).
0111
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0111 is detected when ...
- EVAP control system does not operate properly.
- EVAP control system has a leak in the line between intake manifold and EVAP control system pressure sensor.
Possible causes include ...
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve stuck closed.
- EVAP control system pressure sensor and its circuit.
- Loose, disconnected, or improper connection of rubber tube.
- Blocked rubber tube.
- Blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve.
- Cracked EVAP canister.
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
- Closed Throttle Position Switch.
- Improper connection of one-way valve.
- Blocked purge port.
- EVAP canister vent control valve.
This is a "jackpot" code. It points to so many possible causes as to be almost useless. It may be accompanied by another DTC which is more specific.
0114
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0114 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively rich fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply less gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the rich mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too rich.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
Before tackling anything involving DTC 0114, I would bench test the EVAP CVCV first. It probably needs replacement. Then I would reset the ECU and see if the light comes back indicating you are still running rich on the rear cylinder bank. Most likely, the 0114 will be an Oxygen Sensor if replacing the EVAP CVCV didn't resolve everything..
0115
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0115 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively lean fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply more gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the lean mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too lean.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
0201
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0201 indicates a problem with the ignition coil and power transistor. The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.
The malfunction is detected when the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.
The items to check include
- Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) circuit
A misfire on any individual cylinder should set a code, and a problem with the CPS should also set a code.
I would have expected to see DTC 0201 along with one of the following DTCs.
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire
You didn't get one of these "companion" DTCs, and that is puzzling. Maybe one of them will show up in the next few days.
0203
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0203
0205
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0205
0209
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0209
0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
(All May or May not be Definded By Daniel B. Martin)
0101
My book says DTC 0101 is caused by the Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase). This sensor is located on the engine front cover facing the camshaft sprocket. It detects the cylinder number signal. The Engine Control Module uses this signal to control spark plug firing order and also to sequence the fuel injectors correctly. If the CPS is bad the ECM will fire the plugs at the wrong time, or not fire them at all. This would account for a no-fire symptom.
0102
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0102 points to a problem with the Mass Air Flow Sensor. The MAFS is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. It consists of a thin film that is supplied with electric current from the Engine Control Module. The temperature of the hot film is controlled by the ECM a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss. Therefore, the ECM must supply more electric current to the hot film as air flow increases. This maintains the temperature of the hot film. The ECM detects the air flow by means of this current change.
This malfunction is detected when an out-of-range voltage is sent to the ECM. That voltage might be too high or too low.
a) An excessively high voltage from the MAFS is sent when the engine is not running.
An excessively high voltage from the MAFS is sent under light load driving conditions.Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Faulty MAFS
c) An excessively low voltage from the MAFS is sent when the engine is not running.
d) An excessively low voltage from the MAFS is sent under heavy load driving conditions.
Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Intake air leaks
- Faulty MAFS
With DTC 0102 the ECM is supposed to switch into Fail Safe mode and limit engine speed to 2400 rpm.
0103
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)
0104
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0104 points to a problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor or the associated wiring.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor installed on the transaxle. The part inside the transaxle has a plastic gear which is driven by the internal parts of the transaxle. The part outside is a signal generator which produces a square wave of amplitude 5.2 volts and frequency proportional to vehicle speed.
Remove the VSS, attach a voltmeter to the electric leads, and spin the gear
by hand. If you get zero volts, it's dead.
One owner discovered his VSS was not fully seated in the transaxle. He just tapped it inward, and retightened the 10mm mounting bolt.
For more information please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-22) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-16).
0111
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0111 is detected when ...
- EVAP control system does not operate properly.
- EVAP control system has a leak in the line between intake manifold and EVAP control system pressure sensor.
Possible causes include ...
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve stuck closed.
- EVAP control system pressure sensor and its circuit.
- Loose, disconnected, or improper connection of rubber tube.
- Blocked rubber tube.
- Blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve.
- Cracked EVAP canister.
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
- Closed Throttle Position Switch.
- Improper connection of one-way valve.
- Blocked purge port.
- EVAP canister vent control valve.
This is a "jackpot" code. It points to so many possible causes as to be almost useless. It may be accompanied by another DTC which is more specific.
0114
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0114 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively rich fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply less gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the rich mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too rich.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
Before tackling anything involving DTC 0114, I would bench test the EVAP CVCV first. It probably needs replacement. Then I would reset the ECU and see if the light comes back indicating you are still running rich on the rear cylinder bank. Most likely, the 0114 will be an Oxygen Sensor if replacing the EVAP CVCV didn't resolve everything..
0115
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0115 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively lean fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply more gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the lean mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too lean.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
0201
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0201 indicates a problem with the ignition coil and power transistor. The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.
The malfunction is detected when the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.
The items to check include
- Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) circuit
A misfire on any individual cylinder should set a code, and a problem with the CPS should also set a code.
I would have expected to see DTC 0201 along with one of the following DTCs.
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire
You didn't get one of these "companion" DTCs, and that is puzzling. Maybe one of them will show up in the next few days.
0203
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0203
0205
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0205
0209
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0209
0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
0301
ECU
0302
Diagnostic Trouble code 0302 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. The malfunction is detected by the Engine Control Module when no EGR flow is detected under conditions which call for EGR. Possible causes include:
- The electrical harness or connectors (valve circuit open or shorted)
- The EGR valve is stuck closed
- Weak or dead battery
- The EGR passage is clogged
- Faulty EGR temperature sensor circuit
- A leak somewhere in the exhaust system
The EGR Volume Control Valve may be tested with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the electrical connector. Looking at the connector half which is attached to the EGRVCV with the latch at the 12 o'clock position you will see two rows of three terminals. The top row is numbered 1-3, right to left. The bottom row is numbered 4-6, right to left. Measure the resistance between these terminal pairs:
2 1
2 3
5 4
5 6
... all resistance values should be 20.9-23.1 ohms at 68 degrees F.
Reconnect the EGRVCV connector halves. Turn the ignition switch ON OFF repeatedly. Verify that the EGRVCV shaft moves smoothly forward backward according to the ignition switch position.
The Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor may be tested with an ohmmeter. The specifications are ...
- at 32 degrees F, 0.68-1.11 Megohms
- at 122 degrees F, 0.09-0.12 Megohms
- at 212 degrees F, 0.017-0.024 Megohms
0303
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0303 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the left cylinder bank. The left bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6. A normal signal sweeps back and forth between 0.2 volts and 0.8 volts. This malfunction was detected when the Engine Control Module received a signal from the sensor which was a constant value of approximately 0.3 volts.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Defective Oxygen Sensor
0304
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).
This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS
The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.
2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.
3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.
The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 12mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.
Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.
0305
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0305 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature Sensor. This sensor is a thermistor (a resistor with a value which varies inversely with temperature). The EGRTS is used by the Engine Control Module to test the EGR system operation. Since the signal from the EGRTS is not used for engine operation your car should run perfectly well despite having the Check Engine Light on.
Possible causes of DTC 0305 include ...
- harness or connectors (The EGRTS circuit is open or shorted)
- bad EGRTS
- malfunction elsewhere in the EGR system
The EGRTS may be tested with an ohmmeter.
- at "D" degrees F the resistance should "R" (in Megohms) should be ...
D = 32, R = 0.68-1.11
D = 122, R = 0.09-0.12
D = 212, R = 0.017-0.024
0306
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0307
0307
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0307 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Left Bank. The left cylinder bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6.
DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
0308
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0308 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
DTC 0308 is detected when the closed loop control function for the right bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
0401
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0401 points to a problem with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. The IATS is mounted in the engine air intake duct, downstream of the air cleaner filter. It detects intake air temperature and transmits a signal to the Engine Control Module. The sensor uses a thermistor, a resistor with a value which is inversely proportional to temperature. The IATS is not directly used to control the engine. It is used only for diagnostic purposes. Therefore the engine should start and run normally, even with the Malfunction Indicator Light on and DTC 0401 stored.
This malfunction is detected when ...
a) An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is detected by the ECM.
The signal from the IATS is inconsistent with the signal received from the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a faulty Intake Air Temperature Sensor
The IATS resistance values should be ...
- at 14 degrees F, 7.0-11.4 Kohms
- at 68 degrees F, 2.1-2.9 Kohms
- at 176 degrees F, 0.27-0.38 Kohms
For further information about the Intake Air Temperature Sensor please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-16) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-11).
0402
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0402
0403
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0403 points to a problem with the Throttle Position Sensor. The TPS responds to the accelerator pedal movement. This sensor is a kind of potentiometer which transforms the throttle position into output voltage, and emits the voltage signal to the Engine Control Module. In addition, the sensor detects the opening and closing speed of the throttle valve and feeds the voltage signal to the ECM.
This malfunction may be detected in three different circumstances.
A) An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM. In this situation the ECM enters fail-safe mode (acceleration will be poor) and turns on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
A high voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under light load driving conditions.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
- fuel injector(s)
- Camshaft Position Sensor
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
C) A low voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under heavy load driving conditions.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- intake air leaks
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
0407
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0407 indicates a malfunction was detected when...
A) 120 degree signal is not entered to ECM for the first few seconds during
engine cranking.
120 degree signal is not entered to ECM during engine running.
C) 120 degree signal cycle excessively changes during engine running.
Possible causes...
- Harness or connectors
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Starter motor
- Starting system circuit
Perhaps a marginal starter would crank the engine at a non-uniform rate (fast-slow-fast-slow) and disrupt the normal rhythm of pulses from the CPS. This is consistent with the starter motor problems you have recently reported.
ECU
0302
Diagnostic Trouble code 0302 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. The malfunction is detected by the Engine Control Module when no EGR flow is detected under conditions which call for EGR. Possible causes include:
- The electrical harness or connectors (valve circuit open or shorted)
- The EGR valve is stuck closed
- Weak or dead battery
- The EGR passage is clogged
- Faulty EGR temperature sensor circuit
- A leak somewhere in the exhaust system
The EGR Volume Control Valve may be tested with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the electrical connector. Looking at the connector half which is attached to the EGRVCV with the latch at the 12 o'clock position you will see two rows of three terminals. The top row is numbered 1-3, right to left. The bottom row is numbered 4-6, right to left. Measure the resistance between these terminal pairs:
2 1
2 3
5 4
5 6
... all resistance values should be 20.9-23.1 ohms at 68 degrees F.
Reconnect the EGRVCV connector halves. Turn the ignition switch ON OFF repeatedly. Verify that the EGRVCV shaft moves smoothly forward backward according to the ignition switch position.
The Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor may be tested with an ohmmeter. The specifications are ...
- at 32 degrees F, 0.68-1.11 Megohms
- at 122 degrees F, 0.09-0.12 Megohms
- at 212 degrees F, 0.017-0.024 Megohms
0303
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0303 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the left cylinder bank. The left bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6. A normal signal sweeps back and forth between 0.2 volts and 0.8 volts. This malfunction was detected when the Engine Control Module received a signal from the sensor which was a constant value of approximately 0.3 volts.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Defective Oxygen Sensor
0304
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).
This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS
The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.
2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.
3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.
The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 12mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.
Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.
0305
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0305 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature Sensor. This sensor is a thermistor (a resistor with a value which varies inversely with temperature). The EGRTS is used by the Engine Control Module to test the EGR system operation. Since the signal from the EGRTS is not used for engine operation your car should run perfectly well despite having the Check Engine Light on.
Possible causes of DTC 0305 include ...
- harness or connectors (The EGRTS circuit is open or shorted)
- bad EGRTS
- malfunction elsewhere in the EGR system
The EGRTS may be tested with an ohmmeter.
- at "D" degrees F the resistance should "R" (in Megohms) should be ...
D = 32, R = 0.68-1.11
D = 122, R = 0.09-0.12
D = 212, R = 0.017-0.024
0306
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0307
0307
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0307 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Left Bank. The left cylinder bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6.
DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
0308
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0308 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
DTC 0308 is detected when the closed loop control function for the right bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
0401
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0401 points to a problem with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. The IATS is mounted in the engine air intake duct, downstream of the air cleaner filter. It detects intake air temperature and transmits a signal to the Engine Control Module. The sensor uses a thermistor, a resistor with a value which is inversely proportional to temperature. The IATS is not directly used to control the engine. It is used only for diagnostic purposes. Therefore the engine should start and run normally, even with the Malfunction Indicator Light on and DTC 0401 stored.
This malfunction is detected when ...
a) An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is detected by the ECM.
The signal from the IATS is inconsistent with the signal received from the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a faulty Intake Air Temperature Sensor
The IATS resistance values should be ...
- at 14 degrees F, 7.0-11.4 Kohms
- at 68 degrees F, 2.1-2.9 Kohms
- at 176 degrees F, 0.27-0.38 Kohms
For further information about the Intake Air Temperature Sensor please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-16) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-11).
0402
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0402
0403
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0403 points to a problem with the Throttle Position Sensor. The TPS responds to the accelerator pedal movement. This sensor is a kind of potentiometer which transforms the throttle position into output voltage, and emits the voltage signal to the Engine Control Module. In addition, the sensor detects the opening and closing speed of the throttle valve and feeds the voltage signal to the ECM.
This malfunction may be detected in three different circumstances.
A) An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM. In this situation the ECM enters fail-safe mode (acceleration will be poor) and turns on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
A high voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under light load driving conditions.Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
- fuel injector(s)
- Camshaft Position Sensor
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
C) A low voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under heavy load driving conditions.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- intake air leaks
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
0407
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0407 indicates a malfunction was detected when...
A) 120 degree signal is not entered to ECM for the first few seconds during
engine cranking.
120 degree signal is not entered to ECM during engine running.C) 120 degree signal cycle excessively changes during engine running.
Possible causes...
- Harness or connectors
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Starter motor
- Starting system circuit
Perhaps a marginal starter would crank the engine at a non-uniform rate (fast-slow-fast-slow) and disrupt the normal rhythm of pulses from the CPS. This is consistent with the starter motor problems you have recently reported.
0503
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0503 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. A normal signal sweeps back and forth between 0.2 volts and 0.8 volts. This malfunction was detected when the Engine Control Module received a signal from the sensor which was a constant value of approximately 0.3 volts.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Defective Oxygen Sensor
0504
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery
0505
No Failure Recorded/Detected
0510
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0510 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor. This sensor is mounted in the exhaust stream, just downstream of the Catalytic Converter. When the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are operating properly the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor is not used for engine control operation. It is used to monitor the condition of the Catalytic Converter. If either or both Front Sensors fail the Engine Control Module uses the signal from the Rear Sensor to maintain a correct fuel/air mixture.
DTC 0510 is detected when the signal from the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor does not reach the expected maximum voltage threshold value. The possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel pressure
- Fuel injectors
- Intake air leaks
0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire
You don't have any of these codes, and the engine smooths out at engine speeds greater than 1000 rpm, so let's assume the problem is with fuel delivery.
I believe one of your fuel injectors is not performing properly. There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.
Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
s***hoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.
Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.
Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.
Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.
The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a
rubber tube.
To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.
0701
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0701
0702
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0702 points to a problem with the three-way Catalytic Converter.
The Cat is one of the principal components of the emissions control system. The Engine Control Module monitors the signals from the two front Oxygen Sensors and the one rear Oxygen Sensor. The signal frequency of each sensor indicates something about the condition of that sensor. A comparison of the frequency of the front sensors with the rear sensor indicates something about the condition of the Cat.
This malfunction was detected when the ratio of the signal frequency from the right bank front Oxygen Sensor to the signal frequency of the rear Oxygen Sensor exceeded a critical threshold value. This indicates that the Cat does not have enough oxygen storage capacity. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. Possible causes of this DTC include ...
- Three-way catalyst
- Exhaust tube
- Intake air leaks
- Fuel injectors
- Spark plugs
- Ignition timing
0703
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0703 points to a problem with the three-way Catalytic Converter.
The Cat is one of the principal components of the emissions control system. The Engine Control Module monitors the signals from the two front Oxygen Sensors and the one rear Oxygen Sensor. The signal frequency of each sensor indicates something about the condition of that sensor. A comparison of the frequency of the front sensors with the rear sensor indicates something about the condition of the Cat.
This malfunction was detected when the ratio of the signal frequency from the left bank front Oxygen Sensor to the signal frequency of the rear Oxygen Sensor exceeded a critical threshold value. This indicates that the Cat does not have enough oxygen storage capacity. Possible causes include ...
- Three-way catalyst
- Exhaust tube
- Intake air leaks
- Fuel injectors
- Spark plugs
- Ignition timing
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0503 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. A normal signal sweeps back and forth between 0.2 volts and 0.8 volts. This malfunction was detected when the Engine Control Module received a signal from the sensor which was a constant value of approximately 0.3 volts.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Defective Oxygen Sensor
0504
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery
0505
No Failure Recorded/Detected
0510
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0510 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor. This sensor is mounted in the exhaust stream, just downstream of the Catalytic Converter. When the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are operating properly the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor is not used for engine control operation. It is used to monitor the condition of the Catalytic Converter. If either or both Front Sensors fail the Engine Control Module uses the signal from the Rear Sensor to maintain a correct fuel/air mixture.
DTC 0510 is detected when the signal from the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor does not reach the expected maximum voltage threshold value. The possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel pressure
- Fuel injectors
- Intake air leaks
0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire
You don't have any of these codes, and the engine smooths out at engine speeds greater than 1000 rpm, so let's assume the problem is with fuel delivery.
I believe one of your fuel injectors is not performing properly. There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.
Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
s***hoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.
Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.
Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.
Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.
The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a
rubber tube.
To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.
0701
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0701
0702
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0702 points to a problem with the three-way Catalytic Converter.
The Cat is one of the principal components of the emissions control system. The Engine Control Module monitors the signals from the two front Oxygen Sensors and the one rear Oxygen Sensor. The signal frequency of each sensor indicates something about the condition of that sensor. A comparison of the frequency of the front sensors with the rear sensor indicates something about the condition of the Cat.
This malfunction was detected when the ratio of the signal frequency from the right bank front Oxygen Sensor to the signal frequency of the rear Oxygen Sensor exceeded a critical threshold value. This indicates that the Cat does not have enough oxygen storage capacity. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. Possible causes of this DTC include ...
- Three-way catalyst
- Exhaust tube
- Intake air leaks
- Fuel injectors
- Spark plugs
- Ignition timing
0703
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0703 points to a problem with the three-way Catalytic Converter.
The Cat is one of the principal components of the emissions control system. The Engine Control Module monitors the signals from the two front Oxygen Sensors and the one rear Oxygen Sensor. The signal frequency of each sensor indicates something about the condition of that sensor. A comparison of the frequency of the front sensors with the rear sensor indicates something about the condition of the Cat.
This malfunction was detected when the ratio of the signal frequency from the left bank front Oxygen Sensor to the signal frequency of the rear Oxygen Sensor exceeded a critical threshold value. This indicates that the Cat does not have enough oxygen storage capacity. Possible causes include ...
- Three-way catalyst
- Exhaust tube
- Intake air leaks
- Fuel injectors
- Spark plugs
- Ignition timing
0704
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0704 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor. The EVAPCSPS is installed in the purge line. The sensor detects the pressure inside the purge line and sends a signal to the Engine Control Module. The signal voltage is directly proportional to pressure. The EVAPCSPS is not directly used to control engine operating parameters. It is used only to evaluate EVAP performance. Therefore a car with DTC 0704 should start and run normally.
The EVAPCSPS is located on the underside of the car near the left rear wheel. It is mounted near, but not directly on, the EVAP canister.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAPCSPS sends an out-of-range voltage signal to the Engine Control Module.
Possible causes include...
- harness or connectors (The EVAPCSPS circuit is open or shorted.)
- bad EVAPCSPS
- EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve is stuck open
- rubber hose connected to EVAPCSPS is clogged, bent, kinked, disconnected, or improperly connected
- EVAP Canister is damaged or saturated with water
- rubber hose from EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve to the water separator
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
0707
Your Maxima engine is OBD-2 compliant. All Diagnostic Trouble Codes are four digits, with the first is always 0 or 1. Therefore your "77" is actually "0707" which points to the rear Oxygen Sensor.
Your Maxima has three Oxygen Sensors. Two are front sensors, mounted in
the Y-pipe between the exhaust manifolds and the Catalytic Converter. One
is a rear sensor, mounted in the exhaust pipe downstream of the Cat.
When both front Oxygen Sensors are operating normally the rear sensor serves only to keep tabs on the Catalytic Converter. That's the reason your engine is running well. The Engine Control Module (the computer) is not using the signal from the rear sensor to control engine management functions.
For more information about Oxygen Sensors go to
http://www.volksparts.com/o2sensors.htm
For specific information about replacing Oxygen Sensors on your Maxima see
the Chilton manual (page 4-13) or the Haynes manual (page 6-14).
In a different thread SprintMax said he got a great price on a replacement factory Oxygen Sensor from Vester Nissan. He didn't give a location or contact information. Perhaps he was referring to Vester Nissan of Clinton NC, 1-800-572-2005.
0801
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0801 points to a problem with the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. The malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the Engine Control Module through the VCVBV. The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself. The VCVBV is located under the car, near the rear left tire. It is near the Evaporative Emission Canister but not mounted directly on it.
The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
0802
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0802
0803
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=352739
0804
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0804 is detected when the signal from the Transmission Control Module is not sent to the Engine Control Module. The factory service manual identifies these possible causes:
- Harness or connectors (the communications line circuit between ECM and TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Weak or dead battery
0806
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
0807
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0807 does not appear in the '99 Maxima factory service manual, and that is my principal information source. I'll tell what I know about the '99 Maxima EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve. This information may or may not apply to your Maxima.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
0901
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0901 points to a problem with the Front Heated Oxygen Sensor, Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are installed in the Y-pipe, the part of the exhaust system which conveys exhaust gases from the exhaust manifolds to the Catalytic Converter. There is an Oxygen Sensor in each branch of the Y-pipe. These sensors produce a signal which varies with the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust gas, as compared to the outside air. This signal is sent to the Engine Control Module which uses it to control the fuel injection system.
DTC 0901 is detected when the current drawn by the heating element in the Oxygen Sensor is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (right bank).
The heated Oxygen Sensors have two components: a heating element and a sensing element. The heating element may be tested with an ordinary ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
Follow the wires away from the Oxygen Sensor until you find the nearest electrical connector. Disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are three terminals. They are numbered 1-3, right to left. Be sure to measure the terminals in the connector half which is attached to the Oxygen Sensor, not the one which leads to the Engine Control Unit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
If the resistance measurements are significantly different from the factory specifications the sensor is faulty and must be replaced.
If the resistance measurements meet the factory specifications the sensor may be good and the wiring is defective. You could exchange the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors and reset the Engine Control Module. Then drive normally and expect the Malfunction Indicator Lamp to turn on again. If you still get DTC 0901 the wiring is faulty. If you get DTC 1001 the sensor is bad.
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0704 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor. The EVAPCSPS is installed in the purge line. The sensor detects the pressure inside the purge line and sends a signal to the Engine Control Module. The signal voltage is directly proportional to pressure. The EVAPCSPS is not directly used to control engine operating parameters. It is used only to evaluate EVAP performance. Therefore a car with DTC 0704 should start and run normally.
The EVAPCSPS is located on the underside of the car near the left rear wheel. It is mounted near, but not directly on, the EVAP canister.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAPCSPS sends an out-of-range voltage signal to the Engine Control Module.
Possible causes include...
- harness or connectors (The EVAPCSPS circuit is open or shorted.)
- bad EVAPCSPS
- EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve is stuck open
- rubber hose connected to EVAPCSPS is clogged, bent, kinked, disconnected, or improperly connected
- EVAP Canister is damaged or saturated with water
- rubber hose from EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve to the water separator
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
0707
Your Maxima engine is OBD-2 compliant. All Diagnostic Trouble Codes are four digits, with the first is always 0 or 1. Therefore your "77" is actually "0707" which points to the rear Oxygen Sensor.
Your Maxima has three Oxygen Sensors. Two are front sensors, mounted in
the Y-pipe between the exhaust manifolds and the Catalytic Converter. One
is a rear sensor, mounted in the exhaust pipe downstream of the Cat.
When both front Oxygen Sensors are operating normally the rear sensor serves only to keep tabs on the Catalytic Converter. That's the reason your engine is running well. The Engine Control Module (the computer) is not using the signal from the rear sensor to control engine management functions.
For more information about Oxygen Sensors go to
http://www.volksparts.com/o2sensors.htm
For specific information about replacing Oxygen Sensors on your Maxima see
the Chilton manual (page 4-13) or the Haynes manual (page 6-14).
In a different thread SprintMax said he got a great price on a replacement factory Oxygen Sensor from Vester Nissan. He didn't give a location or contact information. Perhaps he was referring to Vester Nissan of Clinton NC, 1-800-572-2005.
0801
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0801 points to a problem with the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. The malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the Engine Control Module through the VCVBV. The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself. The VCVBV is located under the car, near the rear left tire. It is near the Evaporative Emission Canister but not mounted directly on it.
The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
0802
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0802
0803
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=352739
0804
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0804 is detected when the signal from the Transmission Control Module is not sent to the Engine Control Module. The factory service manual identifies these possible causes:
- Harness or connectors (the communications line circuit between ECM and TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Weak or dead battery
0806
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
0807
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0807 does not appear in the '99 Maxima factory service manual, and that is my principal information source. I'll tell what I know about the '99 Maxima EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve. This information may or may not apply to your Maxima.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
0901
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0901 points to a problem with the Front Heated Oxygen Sensor, Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are installed in the Y-pipe, the part of the exhaust system which conveys exhaust gases from the exhaust manifolds to the Catalytic Converter. There is an Oxygen Sensor in each branch of the Y-pipe. These sensors produce a signal which varies with the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust gas, as compared to the outside air. This signal is sent to the Engine Control Module which uses it to control the fuel injection system.
DTC 0901 is detected when the current drawn by the heating element in the Oxygen Sensor is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (right bank).
The heated Oxygen Sensors have two components: a heating element and a sensing element. The heating element may be tested with an ordinary ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
Follow the wires away from the Oxygen Sensor until you find the nearest electrical connector. Disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are three terminals. They are numbered 1-3, right to left. Be sure to measure the terminals in the connector half which is attached to the Oxygen Sensor, not the one which leads to the Engine Control Unit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
If the resistance measurements are significantly different from the factory specifications the sensor is faulty and must be replaced.
If the resistance measurements meet the factory specifications the sensor may be good and the wiring is defective. You could exchange the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors and reset the Engine Control Module. Then drive normally and expect the Malfunction Indicator Lamp to turn on again. If you still get DTC 0901 the wiring is faulty. If you get DTC 1001 the sensor is bad.
0902
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0902 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater.
The malfunction is detected when the current in the Oxygen Sensor heater circuit is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- the electrical harnesses
- the connector
- the Oxygen Sensor heaters
You may test the heater with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are four terminals. They are numbered 1-2, top row, right to left and 3-4, bottom row, right to left. Be sure to measure the resistances of the Oxygen Sensor, not the harness which leads to the Engine Control Unit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 4.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and each of the other terminals.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Measure the resistance between terminals 3 and each of the other terminals.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Check fuse #31 (15 amps) in the passenger cabin fuse block. That fuse block has three columns of fuses.
The left-most column contains fuses 1 - 11, numbered from bottom to top.
The middle column contains fuses 12 - 26, numbered from bottom to top.
The right-most column contains fuses 27 - 40, numbered from bottom to top.
The numbers are molded into the plastic fuse block. They are not easy to read. A flashlight will be helpful.
0903
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0903 indicates a problem with the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Control Valve or its associated electric circuit.
This part is used by the Engine Control Module to perform the fuel system leak test. Since it is used only for self-diagnosis your engine will run perfectly well despite the dashboard Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
The EVAP canister and this valve are located under the car, near the rear left tire. You might check to make sure all the electrical connectors in that area are secure.
There's no telling how expensive the repair will be, because no definite diagnosis has been made. Maybe you just have to re-plug a loose connector. Since the EVAP system is part of the emissions control system you might have warranty coverage.
0904
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
0905
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
0908
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0908
1001
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1003
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1003
1005
1005 is EGRC Solenoid valve
The majority of my information about Diagnostic Trouble Codes comes from my '99 Maxima factory service manual. Unfortunately, DTC 1005 is not in that book. Starting in '99 the Maxima engine uses a step-motor type of EGR valve and with that change, the DTCs changed.
The Chilton and Haynes manuals provide a little information about the EGR Solenoid Valve.
The test procedure for this part is found in the Chilton repair manual (page 4-11) and the Haynes repair manual (page 6-20). Test the valve and replace if necessary.
This malfunction is not an emergency but should be resolved fairly soon (7-10 days). An inoperative EGR valve may result in engine pinging and a variety of driveability complaints.
1008
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
http://www.jcn.net/mwest/evappage.htm
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0902 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater.
The malfunction is detected when the current in the Oxygen Sensor heater circuit is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- the electrical harnesses
- the connector
- the Oxygen Sensor heaters
You may test the heater with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are four terminals. They are numbered 1-2, top row, right to left and 3-4, bottom row, right to left. Be sure to measure the resistances of the Oxygen Sensor, not the harness which leads to the Engine Control Unit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 4.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and each of the other terminals.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Measure the resistance between terminals 3 and each of the other terminals.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Check fuse #31 (15 amps) in the passenger cabin fuse block. That fuse block has three columns of fuses.
The left-most column contains fuses 1 - 11, numbered from bottom to top.
The middle column contains fuses 12 - 26, numbered from bottom to top.
The right-most column contains fuses 27 - 40, numbered from bottom to top.
The numbers are molded into the plastic fuse block. They are not easy to read. A flashlight will be helpful.
0903
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0903 indicates a problem with the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Control Valve or its associated electric circuit.
This part is used by the Engine Control Module to perform the fuel system leak test. Since it is used only for self-diagnosis your engine will run perfectly well despite the dashboard Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
The EVAP canister and this valve are located under the car, near the rear left tire. You might check to make sure all the electrical connectors in that area are secure.
There's no telling how expensive the repair will be, because no definite diagnosis has been made. Maybe you just have to re-plug a loose connector. Since the EVAP system is part of the emissions control system you might have warranty coverage.
0904
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
0905
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
0908
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0908
1001
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1003
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1003
1005
1005 is EGRC Solenoid valve
The majority of my information about Diagnostic Trouble Codes comes from my '99 Maxima factory service manual. Unfortunately, DTC 1005 is not in that book. Starting in '99 the Maxima engine uses a step-motor type of EGR valve and with that change, the DTCs changed.
The Chilton and Haynes manuals provide a little information about the EGR Solenoid Valve.
The test procedure for this part is found in the Chilton repair manual (page 4-11) and the Haynes repair manual (page 6-20). Test the valve and replace if necessary.
This malfunction is not an emergency but should be resolved fairly soon (7-10 days). An inoperative EGR valve may result in engine pinging and a variety of driveability complaints.
1008
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
http://www.jcn.net/mwest/evappage.htm
1101
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1101
1102
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1102
1103 1104 1105 1106
Since DTCs 1103 to 1106 deal with the transmission, there is info on the 1106 DTC. Everywhere you see "4th gear", simply substitute "1st gear".
Diagnostic Trouble Code 1106 means "Automatic Transmission 4th gear malfunction."
This malfunction is detected when the automatic transmission does not shift into fourth gear or the torque converter clutch does not lock up as instructed by the Transmission Control Unit. The factory service manual lists these possible
causes...
- Shift solenoid A
- Shift solenoid B
- Overrun clutch solenoid valve
- Line pressure solenoid valve
- Each clutch
- Hydraulic control circuit
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
You can do some troubleshooting without opening the automatic transmission. Find the harnesses which emanate from the transaxle. One of them terminates in a brown plastic connector with eight pins. This is connector F42, located (approximately) above the transaxle case and below the black plastic engine air intake ductwork. With the engine off, disconnect F42. You want to measure the transmission side of F42. Hold the connector such that the plastic latch is at the top. You should now see two rows of four terminals. These are numbered (top row, left to right) 1 - 4, and (bottom row, left to right) 5 - 8. Make resistance measurements between a clean ground and the following terminals:
#1, Shift solenoid B, 20 - 40 ohms.
#2, Shift solenoid A, 20 - 40 ohms.
#3, Overrun clutch solenoid valve, 20 - 40 ohms.
#4, Line pressure solenoid valve, 2.5 - 5 ohms.
#5, Torque converter clutch solenoid valve, 10 - 20 ohms.
There is also a "bench test" procedure for testing these solenoids with a 12 volt supply such as a car battery. However, this requires removal of the shift solenoid valve assembly. I don't know if you want to get involved with that.
1107
Diagnostic Trouble Code P0744(1107) indicates a problem with the Solenoid Valve Lock-up Function. This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into fourth gear position or the torque converter clutch does not lock up as instructed by the Transmission Control Module. The electric circuit is good but the A/T failed to lock up. Possbile causes include...
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
- Each clutch
- Hydraulic control circuit.
DTC P0744 is entirely consistent with P0734. It's no surprise to find both codes set. They are both warning of the same problem, so whatever fixes one will most likely fix the other.
1108
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1108
1201
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1203
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1204
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1204
1205
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1206
Diagnostic Trouble Code 1206 points to a problem with the TPS.
The Throttle Position Sensor detects the throttle valve position and sends a signal to the Transmission Control Module.
The Throttle Position Switch consists of a Wide Open Throttle position switch and a closed throttle position switch. The WOT switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the WOT position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is fully closed.
The Sensor and Switch are integrated into one unit designated TPS.
This malfunction may be detected when the TCM receives an excessively low or high voltage from the sensor.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
- faulty Throttle Position Switch
1207
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1208
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1302
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1302
1305
Fuel Pump Control Module
1308
Cooling Fan
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1101
1102
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1102
1103 1104 1105 1106
Since DTCs 1103 to 1106 deal with the transmission, there is info on the 1106 DTC. Everywhere you see "4th gear", simply substitute "1st gear".
Diagnostic Trouble Code 1106 means "Automatic Transmission 4th gear malfunction."
This malfunction is detected when the automatic transmission does not shift into fourth gear or the torque converter clutch does not lock up as instructed by the Transmission Control Unit. The factory service manual lists these possible
causes...
- Shift solenoid A
- Shift solenoid B
- Overrun clutch solenoid valve
- Line pressure solenoid valve
- Each clutch
- Hydraulic control circuit
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
You can do some troubleshooting without opening the automatic transmission. Find the harnesses which emanate from the transaxle. One of them terminates in a brown plastic connector with eight pins. This is connector F42, located (approximately) above the transaxle case and below the black plastic engine air intake ductwork. With the engine off, disconnect F42. You want to measure the transmission side of F42. Hold the connector such that the plastic latch is at the top. You should now see two rows of four terminals. These are numbered (top row, left to right) 1 - 4, and (bottom row, left to right) 5 - 8. Make resistance measurements between a clean ground and the following terminals:
#1, Shift solenoid B, 20 - 40 ohms.
#2, Shift solenoid A, 20 - 40 ohms.
#3, Overrun clutch solenoid valve, 20 - 40 ohms.
#4, Line pressure solenoid valve, 2.5 - 5 ohms.
#5, Torque converter clutch solenoid valve, 10 - 20 ohms.
There is also a "bench test" procedure for testing these solenoids with a 12 volt supply such as a car battery. However, this requires removal of the shift solenoid valve assembly. I don't know if you want to get involved with that.
1107
Diagnostic Trouble Code P0744(1107) indicates a problem with the Solenoid Valve Lock-up Function. This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into fourth gear position or the torque converter clutch does not lock up as instructed by the Transmission Control Module. The electric circuit is good but the A/T failed to lock up. Possbile causes include...
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
- Each clutch
- Hydraulic control circuit.
DTC P0744 is entirely consistent with P0734. It's no surprise to find both codes set. They are both warning of the same problem, so whatever fixes one will most likely fix the other.
1108
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1108
1201
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1203
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1204
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1204
1205
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1206
Diagnostic Trouble Code 1206 points to a problem with the TPS.
The Throttle Position Sensor detects the throttle valve position and sends a signal to the Transmission Control Module.
The Throttle Position Switch consists of a Wide Open Throttle position switch and a closed throttle position switch. The WOT switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the WOT position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is fully closed.
The Sensor and Switch are integrated into one unit designated TPS.
This malfunction may be detected when the TCM receives an excessively low or high voltage from the sensor.
Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the throttle position sensor is open or shorted.)
- faulty Throttle Position Sensor
- faulty Throttle Position Switch
1207
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1208
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending
1302
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1302
1305
Fuel Pump Control Module
1308
Cooling Fan
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