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Rekless Racing > Tech Forums > Imports > Nissan
Orinackra
Mingo's side marker rewire
STEP 1: REMOVE FRONT SIDE MARKER (refer to manual)

i got real crappy pix of the turn signal bulb.. but it's sthe same as the front. you'll hafta tap into the "green" wire. feed the wire through the hole in your fender, tape one end of the "new" peice of a wire to a thin metal rod. it might help. it might not. stick your hadn in where the side marker went.. and feel for the rod...
here's for the back..
"DO NOT REMOVE REAR SIDEMARKER UNLESS YOU HAVE NOTHING BETTER TODO"

i hope this all helped you all. please feel free to ask questions.. and of course the famous disclaimer

>>>> the above content is just to help you achieve the side marker rewire. i was successufully able to complete the process using by using the exact same method. if for some reason your car is damaged or you injured yourself, you are the one responsible for that, i'm never at fault.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=6940
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=145599
Orinackra
Punkdork's stereo swapout

I know the fronts are "6 1/2" I know the back are supposed to be too, I haven't gotten a chance to replace them yet, the mods to make the speaker into a braket take a little while.


Here are the pics I promised:


This is the lovely high quality paper speakers that came in my 2kSE.


Here you can see the stock speakers vs. my pioneers, obviously the stock won't fit.


Here you can see the speaker from the back, I have sawed out the magnet and cone and soldered on the wires for my new speakers.


The stock speakers have a lip that made it impossible for me to screw my new speakers onto them, so if you look closely you can see where I used my hacksaw to trim the lip all the way around the speaker.


Here is the finsihed product from the back. I mounted them with the pinoeer grills attached. This is because the stock speakers were more recessed then my pioneers after I attached them to my new "bracket". They still fit in the door no problem.

Tools required for this ghetto-rigged job:
hacksaw
flat screwdriver (to help remove trim from door so you can remove the panel
phillips screwdriver
soldering pen/iron/gun

Click here for more info:
http://www.punkdork.net/max/speakers.htm


http://www.maxima.org/forums/showthr...?threadid=1647
Orinackra
Otter'sMax's Dynamatting

Haven't dynomated my max but I did an entire nissan xcab truck. if you decide to take this on, be prepared for a long day. you have take all carpet out, door panels, seats, etc. you said you doors and trunk, which is a good start. get some acetone, a small harwood roller (kinda like a rolling pin) and a hair dryer. that is all the supplies needed. if you have the money get you local car stereo shop to do it, but be prepared for a huge labor bill. you can do it yourself on a sat or sun and save your cash for something else.

First clean the area completely w/ the acetone to remove any residue that will inhibit bonding. second take the dryer and heat the dynamat that you have already preshaped and cut to the desired area. heat till the entire piece is warm to the touch and pretty shapeable. now heat the panel that it is to be mounted too. mount the piece to the panel, and roll it out with the roller. get out all the air bubbles or you have just wasted your time and money on the dynomat. reinstall the carpet/panels and you are done!

No as for alternatives you can get sprays from companies like rockford fosgate, lightning audio, and dynamat. you can get a cheap alternative to dynamat too. all dynamat is is a thin sheet of asphalt. I used to post all time at http://www.sounddomain.com

Go there and search in their forums. Search for High Temp Mastic or dynamat and see what you come up with. There is a company you can get the same stuff just without the dynamat screenprint on it for about half the price.

Nevermind found it for you
http://www.mcmaster.com/

HI-TEMP MASTIC, its all the way at the bottom, it costs around $13 for a 32" X 54" sheet.

more detailed instructions...
go to the search box on mcmaster.com
type in acoustic
go to acoustic dampers
(you will need adobe acrobat viewer)
there you go at the bottom.

Hope this helps and do it yourself! You'll appreciate it more that way


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=27094
Orinackra
IceY2K1's fog light rewire

This is an explanation of how to wire your fog lights to operate with just the running lights on. Sorry, no pics available, however it's pretty simple. The factory setup only allows you to have them on with the low beams. This setup allows the fog light switch to still turn the fogs on/off, however the fogs still turn off once the brights are activated. I ran out of time to figure out how to provide the ground that was removed once the brights are turned on causing the fogs to turn off.

Directions:

0)DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!

1) Remove passenger-side engine bay relay block cover 2-snaps. I also removed the coolant resevior to make things easier.

2) Remove the snaps to separate the middle section from the bottom. This step is to gain access to the bottom side of the BLUE foglight solenoids'(Top left corner of box) 4-wires.

3) Cut the Yellow wire with 2-silver horizontal bands leaving PLENTY of slack to splice. There are two yellow wires in the relay block, but only one goes to the fog light solenoids' "front-of-vehicle" terminal(right terminal if your looking down while on passenger side).

4) Splice a wire to the cut end that connects to the FOG LIGHT solenoid terminal NOT the one that goes OUT of the fuse block.

5) Drill or poke a hole in the bottom of the relay block case to allow the new wire you just spliced to fit through.

6) Connect the spliced wire with an inline fuse to the turn signals' RED wire with 2-yellow longitudinal stripes and single horizontal silver band every 1". You could also use the front side marker positive wire, but if you make them flash with your turn signals the fog lights will also flash.

7) Reconnect the battery and test ALL you lights. MAKE SURE your headlight switch is NOT in the high beam position or else the fogs will not work with the running lights. I did this and after I disassembled and reassembled everything 2-3 times, I realized I had everything correct but the high beam switch was on. Doooh!

8) Reassemble everything and use LOTS of electrical tape.



Side Note: If you want to have the fog light switch turn on the fog lights withOUT needing the running lights to be on, you could probably just connect the spliced wire to a 12V source that is activated with the ignition instead of the turn signals constant 12V. However, I didn't have time to try this, but I will do this when I connect the turn signals and side markers.

P.S: I also noticed that you can access the front side markers from the bottom of your car once you remove the splash guard to access the fog lights. This might be easier and safer then poping them off with a screw driver.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=28752
Orinackra
Paul2KGXE's Rear Sway Bar (RSB) write-up

Instructions and pictures can be found here:
http://www.paulwendy.com/maxima/rsb.htm



http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/
Orinackra
Russ2kSE's write-up on installing clear markers

http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/clearinst.html


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=32517
Orinackra
Russ2kSE's write-up on 5 spd tranny fluid change

http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/trannymt90.html


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=32795
Orinackra
Mdeal's auto-dim mirror picture page

http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mirrorinstall/


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=mirror
Orinackra
Desert Pearl's exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec)

As many of you already know, I am in the process of partly changing my car from CA emissions to Federal emissions. I am NOT doing a complete conversion, but just enough to get by and also get the increase in HP.

Here's a summary. I am changing the front-side (aka left-side) exhaust manifold from the CA spec to Fed spec. This will allow me to bolt up a Fed spec y-pipe to both manifolds (the rear one is the same on CA and Fed models). I have already relocated the two downstream O2 sensors to after the main cat (similar to the one downstream sensor on the Fed model). You can see pics and descriptions on my web-site of this mod. I will finish the project and post an update here, as soon as I can get a Fed y-pipe.

You can reach this site directly by clicking on the following link:

http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=33388

In test mode... not sure if the ECU will freak out or not.

Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose] for giving the updated link
Orinackra
Foozed's A-pillar removal plus tweeter swap

The A-Pillar comes off by using a trim wedge, or regular screwdriver (be careful) by prying it away from the window at the top. It then pulls out from the bottom half. Putting it back in works in reverse (seat the bottom half in first, and snap it in all the way up to the top).

The stock tweeters are horrible. I dont recall 100%, but I think they were made by Clarion or something.. They are made mostly of paper, and are about as big as a quarter. These things couldnt produce a crisp tweet if they tried. I replaced mine with Polk audio components, which fit in perfectly.
The 6.5's for the door required a little plastic work to squeeze them in though..


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=tweeter
Orinackra
OSCAI (Ooglie Stock Cold Air Intake) write-ups

punkdork's:
http://punkdork.net/max/oscai.htm

mdeal's:
http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/oscaiinstall/

Paul2kGXE's:
http://paulwendy.com/maxima/svcai.htm
Orinackra
Y2KevSE's do-it-yourself Ooglie front clear markers

http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~chin/...s/clears1.html
Orinackra
Mdeal's BOSE unit rear parcel rattling fix

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I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).

I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.

It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.

I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.

The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."

Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.

See thread: http://www.maxima.org/forums/showthr...threadid=35462
Orinackra
Desert Pearl's completed exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec)


http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35677
Orinackra
Russ2kse's Instructions on Installing Fog light Bulbs

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http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/foginstall.html


If the link above is dead, see this instead for 00-01s:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2076435/2

Credit: makdaddy386


For 02-03s:

http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/piaa_fogs.html

Credit: Housecor


http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/foglight.html

Credit: Audtatious
Orinackra
Russ2kSE's Instructions on Rewiring your Fogs with pictures

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http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/fogrewire.html
Orinackra
Russ2kSE's Instructions on Rewiring your corner lights to blink with blinkers

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http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/clearrewire.html
Orinackra
Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

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http://home.comcast.net/~i1k/2000MaximaBrakes.html

Credit: i1k
Orinackra
Russ2kSE's Hardwiring your Radar Detector Instructions

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http://boostedmaximas.com/howto/hardwireradar.html
Orinackra
How To Install a JWT PopCharger

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Hope I can help as I've installed a pop charger on two different cars.

As far as the stock scoop goes, I left it on both cars but that is a matter of preference. It does seem that it would push some cool air toward the intake. You can remove it if you desire.

Take the hole airbox out including the maf tube (there is a section where you can disconnect it from the scoop) and you remve the MAF tube after losening a hose clamp.

Take out the four bolts holding the maf to the airbox.

Set aside your airbox.

I find it easiest to remove the cone from the velocity stack at this point.

Bolt 3 of the new bolts that came with your pop charger to the maf tube leaving the one that will be closest to the top of the strut tower empty.

Slide the maf back into the area you removed it from. Slide makes it sound easy.. it actually requires a lot of work and a couple good strong shoves.

Tighten the hose clamp on the MAF.

Grab the mounting bracket, put one end over the empty hole on your pop charger and the other end to the airbox mounting point on your strut tower and bolt them both on.

Screw the cone filter back onto the velocity stack.

Crank that baby up and hear it suck in the air.

Here are some pics from a link provided by YJ (pics appear to be taken by gr8bone based on the URL : http://members.nbci.com/gr8bone/intake/
Orinackra
PIONEER'S Place Racing CAI install

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http://www.geocities.com/nismorg/Maxima/cai.html

Oh just incase Geocities doesn't behave, keep refreshing, they are there.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=38892
Orinackra
this is how to flushmount an aftermarket head unit/deck/radio



http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/bracketgrind.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/...tsnewholes.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/bracketsside.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/stockmount.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/flushmount.jpg


Copy the link location (Netscape) or copy the shortcut (Explorer) then paste the link in your browser.
Orinackra
debadge

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and more.. again this is from geocities

directions: use a fishing line if you have any. to get rid of the adhesive material left on the car after you've removed the emblem, spray wd40 on it let it soak for a lil and then scrub it off with a terry towel. some others also suggested the use of goo gone.

http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/debadge.jpg


Copy the link location (Netscape) or copy the shortcut (Explorer) then paste the link in your browser. -Y2KevSE
Sousa is offline Add Infraction for Sousa Report Post IP Edit/Delete Message
Orinackra
Spring/Strut Swap

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You gotta do this with someone who has done springs before. The first time I did it with my friend it took us about 8 hours (no air tools and no lift). I did struts this weekend with Tim's help and it still took 4-5 hours.

The short of it is:

For rear:

1. Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the trunk liner.
4. There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat.
5. Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center.
6. Remove the larg bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent).
7. Compress the spring.
8. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt).
9. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
10. Do steps 1-9 in reverse.

For front:

1. Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift).
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut.
4. Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut.
5. Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent).
6. Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3).
7. Remove the strut assembly from the car.
8. Compress the spring.
9. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt).
10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
11. Do steps 1-10 in reverse.
Orinackra
Molded Dash Kit Installation

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Finally made a web page for the Woodview molded dash kit installation. Thanks to Rocketshipon19" for trying this kit first.

http://paulwendy.com/maxima/trim.htm
Orinackra
Installing Chrome Gauge Bezels

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How-To Install Chrome Gauge bezels on 2000+ Nissan Maxima

You will need a phillips screw driver for this.

1- Unscrew 2 screws at the top of the dashboard inside where the instrument cluster is.
2- Unscrew the 4 outside under the steering wheel... that will detach the top part of the plastic cover over the steering column. take that off.
3- Pull out the plastic that is around the instrument cluster that is holding in the gauge cluster into the car... when pulling this out you will have to disconect the wires from behind it. pull out the traction control wire (if you have it) and the other 2 wires on the left side ( i dont remember what they are... i think the dim switch and the mirror adjustment)
4- This will expose 3 screws to remove the actual cluster from the car. 1 on top in the middle, 1 on the bottom left corner, 1 on the bottom right corner. Unscrew these 3 screws
5- pull out the cluster. there are also 2 wires to disconect from the back of this. just pull them out the same way you did with the other ones. once they are disconected just pull the whole cluster out.
6- the clear plastic cover is attached to the cluster with maybe 10 little snaps all around the whole thing... they work on pressure... when you see them you will right away know how to un snap them... just go all the way around and unsnap each of them.
7- once everything is unsnapped just pull the clear plastic off and now your instrument cluster is exposed. stick the guage bezels on each of the gauges. press down firmly and make sure that they stick good... push down all the way around so there are no little cracks that light can pass through between... just run your finger all around a bunch of times applying pressure. also you dont want these things to fly off while you are driving.
8- put the plastic back on and work in reverse order by attaching all the wires and putting the screws back and everything and thats it.
9- sit and admire it and say cool that looks pretty good
Orinackra
UDP Install

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GregP's site:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garag...ve%20pulley.htm
(make sure the whole address is on one line)


My explanation:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.

If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.


Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.

I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.

I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Orinackra
Koni Install

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I finally had time this last weekend to install the 4th Gen. koni adjustable shocks I purchased from Cattman and the H&R springs from the Tire Rack. Thanks to OzziSVT for his help! The entire operation took 6 hours with hand tools and manual spring compressors.

The low down…

Rear Suspension

After we had the car on jack stands and removed the trunk liner we noticed a sheet metal stamping that went around the top of the shock attachment that had a small opening for tool access to the shock retaining bolts. We could not get our ratchet onto one of the bolts. So we put the rear seats down and removed the plastic backing between the seats and sheet metal. Then we saw that the trunk pass through has a large metal stamping around the opening that buts up against the shock tower stampings. After we removed a majority of the bolts on the large stamping we were able to remove the shock tower stampings.

The rear shocks are a direct bolt in with no modifications necessary. The total time was two hours.

Front Suspension

The front struts are easy to remove. Two bolts hold on the shock to the knuckle (they do not have a cam type shoulder for setting the alignment). The shock also has a clip that retains the break line and a grommet and another bolt that retain the ABS wire. Removing the springs is a straightforward process.

Replacing the strut insert took some time. We followed the instructions for draining the shock of its oil. Next, we had the cut the top off the body of the strut. You have to measure down 3/4" for your cut (the instructions say 7mm). This is because the internal portion of the shock is attached to the body for a little over 1/2". The koni cartridge fit within the modified strut housing.

This is where we had to do some modifications to the strut hat.

The first item is that the threaded stock end of the rod has been machined off on the sides of the treads to allow a hold and drive device to be used on the shock (if you look at the threads from the top it appears that the circle was changed to a rectangle with the short ends are an arc instead of a straight line). This profile is copied onto the strut hat. The koni's did not have this feature, so we had to take a Dremel tool and open up the hat.

Secondly, the hat has a metal collar that extends down to contact the shoulder of the strut rod. The stock shoulder allows more threads than the koni units. Therefore we had to remove about 2/3 of the collar to get enough thread to bolt the rod the hat.

Just make sure that you properly align the hat with the spring retainer (the retainer has a marking that specifies "OUT") during reassembly.

The total time was 4 hours.


Credit: DNA21

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=43673
Orinackra
Street Scene Equipment Speed Grille Install.

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Check out pics of the finished product here:

http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...7&a...at=25&val=1

1) I ordered them from my local speed shop in June, installed the valence in July & the main grille in August.
2) They are manufactured by Street Scene Equipment.
3) Help out a fellow Maxima Enthusiast by ordering them from Greg at www.CustomMaxima.com at $120 for the main grille and $100 for the valence grille.
4) It's recommended that you cut out the main grille to install it correctly.
5) Valence grille installs in less than 30 minutes, no cutting.
6) Main grille installation takes much longer. If you're as picky as I am about it being perfect, it may take the better part of a day, if you cut out the original main grille.
7) I installed them by myself.
8) If you decide to chrome it, make sure you prefit it first, because it might need some shaping to fit perfect, otherwise the chrome plating might chip off if done afterwards.
9) Part numbers: Main Grille #95077300
Valence Grille #95077320


Valence Speed Grille install:
1)Remove approximately 8-10 (4 or 5 per side) splashguard fasteners beneath front bumper (plastic plugs) and bend down the splashguards. The splashguards are flexible and bend at the crease.
2)You might not need car ramps, if you can reach in behind the bumper to install the clips, but it will make it easier.
3)Attach the long clips provided from behind bumper and install the grille from the front, it only installs one way & you can tell because one end (top or bottom) is more narrow. The grille also has indentations where it rests against the vertical plastic fins (supports) of the bumper.
4)The clips can be difficult to pry open, so watch you're fingers. Push the clips until they are gripping the bumper and an edge of the grille at the same time. Try to space them evenly, 4 top & 4 bottom. The clips are shaped to allow clearance over the grille mesh, so they only install one way. It's easier to clip the areas that have mesh that extends further back towards the rear of the bumper.
5)Replace splash guard fasteners, now you're done.

Main Speed Grille install:
1)Remove multiple fasteners on top of center grille & beneath the car (plastic plugs & a few screws). There are four (4) above the grille, approx. ten (10) beneath the front bumper, & approx. five (5) associated with each wheel well. You may need to remove these to get at the lights.
2)Disconnect foglights & sidemarkers.
3)Remove front bumper with someone to help & place on a non-scratch surface. I used a bunch of old towels beneath it, in case I dropped any fasteners or the bumper itself.
4)Remove screws holding grille surrounding trim (chrome color on GXE? & GLE and charcoal grey on SE) in place from the backside of the bumper.
5)Cut out original main grille beams, leaving the holes for the screws to reattach the surrounding trim. I used a hacksaw blade with no handle attached, it's easier to position. Cut around the holes, using the trim as a template.
6)Use a Dremel tool or file to make the cuts flush & remove any plastic burrs.
7)I spray-painted the cut locations flat black, because the plastic gets greyish-white when you cut it. A few light coats is sufficient. Let it dry between coats & before proceeding further.
8)Replace the surrounding trim with the screws.
9)Gently bend the grille to fit snug and tight. Only bend the contact points at the edges. Be careful not to scratch the surrounding trim, as the grille edges are sharp. The front of the grille should fit flush with the back edge (lip) of the surrounding trim. It will be positioned approx. 1/2 inch back.
10)It installs with short clips, but I used several black zip ties at strategic locations (at the surrounding trim screw locations) which are hard to see, unless you are less than a foot from the car. I also used a few self-drilling screws to make sure it doesn't come loose. The screws drill a hole first, so that the plastic doesn't crack, which will happen with regular screws.
11)Replace the bumper & reconnect the lights.
12)Replace all of the fasteners that you removed.
13)If you don't have any extra hardware after installation, you're done!
14)Take a picture of your car and post some pics. I've already seen them on Superblack (Pillager & RussMaxManiac) & Icelandic Pearl (chucky) Maximas, so please post pics of other color Maximas or if you've got some sweet mods. Oh yeah, remember to close your mouth, you're drooling. Crack open a cold one if you're of drinkin age, just don't drive afterwards. Peace & enjoy your beer, you deserve it.
Orinackra
How-To Install a Shift Light

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See psing23 "Installing Chrome Gauge Bezels" for more clarification on how to remove the gauges cluster/bezel.

Pro-Shift Lite Install Click here for some pics
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1)Disconnect Battery NEGATIVE terminal! Wrap terminal in shop towel and put it where it won’t move.
2)Remove (3) Philips-head screws under steering column to remove top half of plastic steering column cover.
3)Move steering column to lowest position.
4)Remove (2) Philips-head screws underneath top part of gauge bezel(Tach/Speedo).
5)Unsnap large electrical connector on top back portion of steering column near the gauge bezel for more clearance.
6)Pull black bezels’ lower quadrant until snaps on left and right side release.
7)Carefully pull bezel away from the dash on the LEFT side and unsnap power mirror and gauge dimmer harness.
8)Remove bezel completely.
9)Remove (3) Philips-head bolts(White) on Combination meter.
10)Carefully pull Combo meter out of dash and turn UPSIDE down to expose reverse sides’ wiring harnesses.
11)Put Dielectric grease on an universal 18-22 gauge TAP.
12)Tap the White with GREEN stripe wire on Combo meters’ left most harness down towards the Y in the wires where the foam insulation is split. Use tape to protect the wire/tap from chaffing and rattling.
13)Connect the TAP to the GREEN wire of Shift Light.
14)Run the Shift Lights’ RED and BLACK wires to the FUSE panel on lower left side of steering column.
15)Connect BLACK ground wire to bolt on car.
16)Find empty “fuse slot” in fuse block.
17)Snip SMALL amount off one leg of a SPARE 5-AMP fuse.
18)Place RED power wire on shorter leg of the fuse and push into the LOWER/BOTTOM half of the “fuse slot”.
19)Reconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal.
20)Plug in the 3000 RPM pill, start the car, rev slowly past 3000, and see that light comes on and stays on.
21)Replace the 3000 RPM pill with the correct HIGH rpm pill.
22)DO NOT LEAVE THE 3000 RPM PILL IN! The light remains on and the unit gets VERY hot.
23)Reverse steps 2-10 to reinstall gauge cluster/bezel.
Orinackra
BigDogJonx's 2k2 HID installation

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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=62980

http://bigdogjonx.gixxer.com/
Orinackra
Info on tranny cooler install

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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=67256

Credit: Menacer and mingo
Orinackra
How To: Black-out Chrome Window Trim

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I used a product manufactured by TRIMBRITE Products . It's kinda like a vinyl tape with adhesive that's flat black in color. It comes in a roll 1 3/8 in. X 20 ft. The item/product number is T-9005. It's made specifically for blacking out chrome window trim. It's relatively easy to apply, if you have patience, because you'll have to cut the tape, cuz it's too wide. The most difficult areas to do are around the front window (side mirror) and the rear door window. The curves are too sharp for the tape to bend around, so it must be cut into two or three pieces to make it around.

Installation directions:

1. Apply only at temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16-27 degrees Celcius). Note: Do not apply to a hot surface or in direct sunlight.

2. Clean application area thoroughly. For application over pre-painted moldings, remove all paint elements first, exposing the base metal surface.

3. Cut tape oversize to the length of application area. Note: From personal experience, I recommend that you leave approximately 0.5 millimeter extra around the edges. I installed mine in the summertime, and since it's black and subjected to heat and direct sunlight, I found that it shrinks less than 0.5 millimeters over the course of a few months. I have some very small gaps, but they can't be see from the side of the vehicle, unless you're a few feet away and looking directly down at the seams.

4. Slowly remove backing paper as you apply. Carefully rub firmly into molding contours or over edges. Note: Avoid creases or bubbles in film.

5. Trim excess tape with a knife or razor blade. Repeat as required. Note: Be careful not to cut too deeply into the window trim or rubber moldings, as the razor will easily cut through them.

6. Do not wash vehicle or subject it to abuse for approximately 48 hours.

7. Good Luck & Enjoy Your Tight Ride!!!

If you have any additional questions, feel free to PM or email me.


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=75719
Orinackra
HID Conversion (Factory Fog Lights 00-01 Maxima)

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H4 HID Kit w/o beam correction.(MUST)
Silicone Sealant
3M Moulding Tape
Two (2) Balloons
Philips Screwdriver

Before Proceeding, Understand Everything:

Remove Factory Fog Lights. Be careful to remove fog light plug or cut harness so you keep both ends of the harness.

Disassemble fog light unit. Remove H3 bulb, and bulb clip.(Small Philips.)

H4 HID Kit w/ metal rings or H4 HID kit w/ injection molded base.

*Please becareful when inserting the HID burner, as the H3 opening is tight, and the HID capsule will be a tight fit, and take care not to break the ceramic shield.(I broke 3 in this process.)

VERY IMPORTANT:

Look at the back of the housing, how the inner part is round. You must shave a little off the 3 prongs to hold the HID burner in place in the housing. To view the position of the ceramic shield, face the lens side towards you and rotate til you can see the ceramic shield, which should face down. Adjust accordingly so you don't make contact w/ the housing.(The housing will melt if the ceramic rests on the plastic housing part.)

The HID burner should be snug against on the "perch" where the H3 Bulb clip was.
As you position the HID burner, be very careful.

Once in place, use silicone to seal the HID burner in place, and let dry for a few hours.
Cut a Balloon to fit the back of the housing, and add a bead of silicone to seal the deal.
Make a cut in the middle of the balloon, and wrap the balloon around the HID Burner base.

Optional: The "cap" on the back of the factory fog light can be used as a "lock ring" on top of the balloon to ensure 100" sealing. You must cut off the rear of the "cap" so it remains flush.

INSTALLATION:

Attach the HID plug to the HID Burner Base, to ensure fit.
Use 3M Moulding Tape on the underside of the HID Ballast.(3 Strips should be used) Place the tape on the opposite side of the power input and HID output on the bottom.
HID Ballast in first and route plug through the right side of the Fog Light "cage" (Driver as well as Passenger side.)
Attach the HID plug to the HID burner base.
Insert the fog light housing, make sure to line up the alignment dowels.
THE HOUSING WILL PRESS AGAINST THE BACK OF THE FOG LIGHT "CAGE."
You must add some pressure to get the 10mm screw on the bottom of the housing. Once that is in, the wiring harness should be spliced in, and FOG FUSE MUST BE CHANGED to 30A~!(Located under the dash on the left side.)
Please test to ensure wiring was done correctly, correct if needed.
Mount Ballast on top of Fog Light "cage"(Please clean the top part w/ rubbing alcohol) as it will press against the metal bumper reinforcement.

The pattern on the floor will be wide, and pattern on the wall will be bright as well as the sides.

Even w/ HID Headlamps, HID Fog lights will light the sides even more, and any space that is not covered by HIDs in the headlamps in front will be covered.

-Please don't blind friends who drive in front w/ your HID Fog lights. They will cause alot of glare.


Credit: yo_its_ok

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=77169
Orinackra
STEALTH Running Lamps(FREE Mod)

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Eliminates the AMBER running lamp filament on the 1157 bulb used for a 2K-2K1 headlamp, but still uses the blinker filament. This mod makes the headlamps only produce white light until the blinker is activated, which looks better in my opinion especially with clear front corners.

1)Remove the bulb/socket from the headlamp housing.
2)Remove the bulb from the socket.
3)Place SMALL piece of black electrical tape over ONE "knub"(small contact on bottom of bulb).
4)Reinstall bulb into the socket.
5)Turn on hazards(or blinker with keys in ignition). If it flashes reinstall bulb/socket into the headlamp housing, if not, remove bulb from the socket and move the electrical tape to the other "knub".
Orinackra
How to tell if you're having VIAS problems (variable intake)...

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Look guys - there are only a few ways to establish if you have a vias problem (that I know of). The threshold is - do you have a power loss problem that you can feel ABOVE 5K RPMS? That is the only time VIAS makes any difference. If so, this is what you do:

First, is to determine if the VIAS APPEARS to be functioning from the engine compartment. To do that, locate the actuator and the rod that moves the flaps inside the vias. It is located under the rectangular black box on the driver's side of the intake manifold. You will see a copper colored piece of metal that comes out of the Variable intake and then turns so that it points to the front of the car. You will need to look UNDER the box. When you hit 5k, that piece is pulled up by the actuator. You can visibly see it move. Best way to test is to just push on the throttle under the hood and rev it up until it the valve moves. If it never moves (and you get to 5k) you've definitely got a problem. If it does move, Nissan will tell you that you don't have a problem.

Second, VIas is only a factor after 5k rpms. So, find AN IDENTICAL maxima to test against. You can't test against Legends. Also, it is very hard to test against other cars when you are modified. If you've got mods, the other guy should have the same mods. Roll each other in 3rd gear (don't bother with 1 and 2) and you should be even until 5k rpms at which time the car without the problem begins to walk away and continues on into 4th.

Third, disable your VIAS system and drive around - do you notice the difference above 5k. If no difference, then you've got some kind of VIAS problem. If you feel a difference there is nothing wrong with your VIAS.


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=104806

Credit: Max_Gator
Orinackra
Way To Remove Condensation From Clear Sidemarkers

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Start with obtaining some desiccant. You can obtain some online at SafetyCentral, Dessicare, or Desiccant City to name a few. You can do it one of two ways:

Non-heating method

If you don't want to put your clear sidemarker in the oven, then obtain silica based desiccant. Put the sidemarker(s) in a small plastic storage container with tight fitting lid and place a few packets of the silica desiccant within the container or pour the dessicant directly into your marker and set aside for a few days. Check on the markers after two days and if more time is required (depending on the atmospheric conditions in your locale) then check daily or every other day until the moisture is gone.

Heating method

This procedure requires the use of heat to remove the moisture. Set the oven to about 110 degrees Farenheit and place some clay based desiccant within a pie pan and cover the pan with foil. Fill the pan with enough to cover the bottom, and maybe just a little bit more. Set this pan aside. Place the clear sidemarker(s) on top of a cookie sheet and place it in the oven for about 30 minutes. At this time check to see if the moisture is gone. If it is not, put it back in the oven and check the markers in 15 minute intervals until the moisture is gone. Once you see it dissappear, or become less within the sidemarker, take the marker(s) out of the oven and put the marker(s) into the pie pan and cover with the foil. Any of the moisture within the marker(s) should be absorbed by the desiccant. If after this, you still see moisture, repeat this procedure, except in 15 minute intervals and not 30 minutes like the initial drying.


After removing the moisture

After you have removed the moisture (and cooled the markers down if need be), place a bead of clear silicone along the edge where the opaque portion meets the translucent portion of the marker. Let dry for 24 hours, or by the recommendations of the silicone packaging and then you're ready to go!
Orinackra
Delay Headlamps Rewire for 2000-2001

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This rewire will allow the headlamps to have the full 40 second delay (when in 'ON' position not 'AUTO') after you turn off your ignition and will NOT be cancelled when you open one of the front doors. It will also cause your retained accessory power to last the full 30 seconds (approx) and also will not be cancelled when opening either of the front doors.

What you will need:

Wire cutters/stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
About 10' of 18 Gauge Primary Wire
Electrical Tape
Optional: Wire Taps (or just splice and tape)

There are a couple of things that you will lose by doing this mod:

The interior lights will no longer have a delay when you open the driver's door but you will still have the interior light delay when you unlock the doors with the remote.

The 'chime' for key-in-ignition will no longer work but that shouldn't matter since you should always lock your car with the remote (with keys in-hand) anyway. Your anit-lock-out-protection WILL STILL WORK. (If you try to lock the doors with the key in the ignition and with a door open the doors will still automatically unlock.)

Essentially what you will be doing in this mod is making the SECU (Smart Entrance Control Unit) think that a rear door is being opened when you open one of the fronts.

Directions:

Driver's Side: Open Driver's door and pull off the panel just inside the car where the carpet goes under. (The door seal is next to this panel) Start pulling at the rear of the panel and it should come up easily then pull it the rest of the way off...the forward end goes up towards the fuse box. Also remove the same panel in the left rear floor-board. Behind these you will find a bundle of wires. VERY CAREFULLY expose about 3" of the wires by cutting the tape in the front and rear bundle. Now confirm the color of wires going to your door-open switches. With a screw driver..remove the driver's door door-open switch. The wires going to this switch should be BLACK and a SKYBLUE W/WHITE STRIPE. Remove the rear door-open-switch. There should only be one wire going to the rear door switch: RED W/WHITE STRIPE. Replace switches. Go back to bundle of wires IN FRONT and CUT the SKYBLUE W/WHITE STRIPE wire. Tape off the end of the wire going towards the front of the car--it will no longer be needed. Strip the other end of the wire (switch side) and splice about a 4' long piece of wire to it. Run the wire under the B-pillar to where the wires are exposed in the rear. Cut off any of the excess of wire that you ran and splice & tape/or tap into the RED WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE.

Test: Turn ignition until all the dash lights come on--Turn headlamps all the way to the "ON" postion--Turn ignition to off--Headlamps should stay on for 40 seconds even if you open the driver's door. The retained accessory power will also stay on for the full 30 seconds allowing you to operate windows or sunroof even if you open the driver' door. Tape all of the wires up and scure them and re-install panels.

Passenger's side: Remove panels and expose wires like you did on the driver's side. Confirm wire colors going to both passenger's side switches. Front passenger's should be BLACK and a RED W/DARK BLUE STRIPE (different from driver's side). Rear should be RED W/WHITE STRIPE (like the driver's side). Cut the RED W/DARK BLUE STRIPE in front and tape off the part going to the front of the car. Strip the other end of the wire (switch side) and splice about a 4' long wire to it. Run wire to rear (like you did on driver's side) and splice/tap into RED WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE.

Test: Now the headlamps and retained accessory power should not be cancelled when you open the front passenger's door. Tape up and secure all wires and re-install panels.
Orinackra
Export OBD-II Logs Into Excel for Graphing

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Only applies to Alex Peppers' software from http://www.obd-2.com.

The advantage of exporting the data to Excel once your back home on your PC, is that you can use Excels' graphing capabilities to plot RPM vs. TPS, RPM vs. Spark Advance, etc.. or ANY two variables for that matter. There are ENDLESS possibilities to what you can do with this information. It may take some time to figure out what's useful and what's not, but I think this can be a HUGE help on tuning a car to it's maximum potential withOUT the use of a dyno.

The information is available, we just need to figure out how to use it!

Notes:
*You MUST already have a *.log file from a scan to do this.
*I recommend you perform this in a "Top-Down" order or else you might not end up with the same results.

Part 1(Converting your *.log file to a comma delimited *.prn file):
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1)Start the OBD Scanner.(obd2.exe)
2)Choose File->Open from the drop down menu.
3)Choose Your_File_Name.log that you want to export to Excel to graph.
4)Once the player opens, press "Play".(Sometimes it says "No vehicle info here try again", but press "Play" anyways)
5)Once it's finished, choose File->Export from the drop down menu.
6)Select your file and change the drop down window "Save file as type:" to ","delimited",data *.prn".
7)Change the "Folders:" window to where you want Your_File_Name.prn file to be saved.(just put it on your desktop)
8)Choose "OK".
9)On the "data export" pop-up window click on the "scale" arrows and choose your desired time stamp units, an example I choose is "h:m:s"(hours:minutes:seconds). However, if you choose a large amount of data to graph, it gets too crowded to read, so you might use just “s”(seconds) or “m”(minutes), etc..
10)Choose "OK" and check that Your_File_Name.prn is located on your desktop.
11)Close the OBD Scanner(obd2.exe).

Part 2(Importing the comma delimited *.prn file into an Excel spreadsheet):
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1)Open Excel(I’m using Excel from Office 2000, so yours might be slightly different)
2)Open Your_File_Name.prn from your desktop.
3)Choose "Delimited" from the "Text Import Wizard" Pop Up Window.("Start import at row:" = 1 and "File origin" = Windows by default)
4)Choose "Next".
5)Only check the "Comma" box under the "Delimiters" section.(Nothing else should be checked!)
6)Choose "Finished".(Don't worry about the next step, just choose "Finished")

Your data is now sorted in an open Excel spreadsheet. The first 2-columns and some of the rows are usually empty. Now it depends on what you want to graph and how good you are with Excel. Excel does NOT like me, so don't expect me to give you too many pointers. Just mess around with it till you get something useful.

Part 3(One of MANY different ways to graphically view log data):
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First, there are two columns for each variable(RPM, TPS, IAT, etc..). The LEFT column is the time stamp, ET(h:m:s), and the RIGHT is the variables name such as, RPM(rpm).

Second, you should delete ANY holes(blank spots) in the columns your about to graph. For example, if I choose RPM, I have to scroll down the RPM column and delete the blank cells in both the ET and RPM column(DELETE as pairs or you'll change the data!). You don't want these blank cells, because they will end up as zeros(invalid points) in your graph. Just highlight both empty cells, right click, select delete, and choose ok. Do this for any columns you plan on graphing.

Example(CRUDE!) to show how to graph 2-variables, RPM and SPKAD, on the SAME chart(RPM = Revolutions Per Minute and SPKAD = Spark Advance in degrees):
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RPM
1)Choose Insert->Chart from the drop down menus.
2)Choose the "Custom Types" Tab from the Pop-Up Window.
3)Choose "Lines on 2 Axis" actually Microdork spelled it Axes.
4)Choose the "Series" Tab from the Pop-Up Window.
5)There should NOT be anything listed in the "Series" window, if there is, select it and chose "Remove". Otherwise, it will screw your graph up.
6)Now choose "Add" to add your first series(column).
7)Click in the "Name" field and type RPM.
8)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Values" field.
A "Source Data - Values:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
9)Click on the first RPM numerical value(NOT the column header) in the RPM column and drag the stretchy box to include all the RPM values listed.
10)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data - Values:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.
11)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Category (X) axis labels:" field.
A "Source Data - Category (X) axis labels:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
12)Click on the first ET numerical value(NOT the column header) in the ET column to the LEFT of the RPM column and drag the stretchy box to include all the ET values listed.
13)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data - Category (X) axis labels:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.

SPKAD
14)Repeat Steps 6) - 10) for SPKAD .
15)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Second category (X) axis labels:" field.
A "Source Data – Second Category (X) axis labels:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
16)Click on the first ET numerical value(NOT the column header) in the ET column to the LEFT of the SPKAD column and drag the stretchy box to include all the ET values listed.
17)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data – Secondary Category (X) axis labels:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.

Optional Steps(Helps to clarify data)
1)Click “Next”.
2)Add RPM vs. SPKAD in the “Chart title:” field.
3)Add Elapsed Time(h:m:s) in the “Category (X) axis:” field.
4)Add RPM(rpm) in the “Value (Y) axis:” field.
5)Leave “Second category (X) axis:” field blank.
6)Add SPKAD(degrees) in the “Second value (Y) axis:” field.

Cont’d
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18)Click “Next”.
19)Choose “As new sheet”.
20)Click “Finish”.



Questions&Answers
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=129911
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=129912
Orinackra
How To Install a SMC STS on a 00-01 w/o removing the cat~!

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00-01 SMC STS w/o removing the Cat~!
I believe this got deleted, so I'll post it up again

Thanks to Champs Tech NYC, for use of facilities.
Angel R.
Richie P.
Hogan J.

Victim's Car: ToyLet 902

Tools:
3/8" Air Gun or Long Handle Rachet
3/8" 10mm Socket
3/8" 12mm Socket
3/8" 14mm Flex Joint Socket
3/8" 14" extension
Philips head Screwdriver
Slotted Screwdriver

#1 PUT CAR INTO 4th GEAR~!~!~!~!~!~!

Shift Knob removal:
Pull down boot, use Vise Grips to clamp on to the shifter.
Use Channel Lock Pliers, and a shop rag. Wrap the shop rag around the shift knob, and use the Channel Lock Pliers, and twist left to loosen.(Righty Tighty,Lefty Loosen..)
Remove Shift knob, you will need to use the Channel Lock to turn the shift knob since it is very stubborn to come off.

SMC's CONSOLE REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Remove shifter console by pulling up on the edges of where the shift boot is facing the cup holders.
Open Ash tray, and remove, there is a screw beneathe it and remove it.
The shifter console should be able to be pulled out and freed using a pull towards you and lift the end of where the cup holders are.
Move to passenger side.

LIFT THE CAR UP.
Remove the (8) 12mm Bolts so that the crossmember can be dropped that is covering (2) of the (5) 10mm bolts retaining the heatshield.
Move to heatshield out of the way.
Looking at the shifter mechanism, remove the rear(most) bolt that retains the shifter's "axis point." 14mm 3/8" Gun w/ 14" extension and "flex" 3/8" 14mm socket.
Remove the 13mm Nut and bolt that retains the shifter linkage to the shifter unit.
Pull down on the shifter linkage and there is a spring attached to it, so becareful. Move it to the driver side of the car, allowing slack on the spring.
(2) 10mm nuts retain the shifter "pivot point", and remove those. The Shifter Unit is still retained by the Stabilizer Linkage.

THE TRICKY PART. (PITA)
With everything tucked away, and all retaining of the shifter are free, turn the shifter 90 degrees right.
If you had put the car into 4th gear in the beginning, this will be easy.
Push the Stabilizer Linkage up with the Shifter Unit, and push the bottom of the shifter unit up, so it will slip through the Stabilizer Link's Hole. Once it is through, the shifter is free.

THE PROBLEM, and THE FIX.
You will be looking at the shifter mechanism, and see the pivot point and retainer seem to be one piece.
From the top of the Shifter Retainer, use a medium sized Flat Head Screwdriver, and start working in a circle along the inside of the Shifter Ball Retainer. After a few minutes the Shifter Ball Retainer, and Shifter unit will pop through.

RE-INSTALL.
Adjust the SMC to desired height, and throw.(All the way up on ToyLet's Car.)
Lube the Shifter Ball Retainer.
EASY WAY:
Place Shifter Retainer on top of Stabilizer Linkage. No nuts yet.
Place STS up the Stabilizer Linkage Hole.
The STS Ball will pass through the Stabilizer Linkage hole.
Take Shifter Ball Retainer, and "wrap" around the STS Ball.
Had you lubed the Shifter Ball Retainer on the outside, it should slide into the Shifter Retainer w/o a problem. Wipe off excess grease.
(2) 10mm Retaining nuts, and bolt down the Shifter retainer.
Now that the Stabilizer Link and the STS are in place, return the Shift Linkage to the bottom of your newly installed STS.(Please remember to use SMC's Included Hardware.) 13mm Nut and Bolt.
Push Shifter unit up to re-install the rear "Axis Point" 14mm retaining bolt.
PLEASE REMEMBER THE SHIFTER RETURN SPRING~!~!(I almost forgot.)

THE HEATSHIELD.
If you aren't too tired, or you're frustrated on how much of a task this was, take a hammer, and make a "channel" down the middle for the STS which will probably be lower than your Stock one.
Reinstall (5) 10mm bolts.

FINALLY.
Reinstall Crossmember (8) 12mm bolts.
Drop the car down, and play with your STS.
If will be very stiff, give it about 10-15 minutes of pretending to be some lunatic who just stole the car, and beat on the STS for a while.
After you're done w/ your "session".....go have some fun w/ powershifting, and hell-toe downshifting, double clutching.

Credit: yo_its_ok, ChimpDj aka Hogan
Orinackra
2k2 Urethane Motor Mount Swap

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This install guide only applies to the 2002 6-Speed Maxima. Although these directions may apply to other models, I do not have experience with any other model. Author is not responsible for installation woes - perform this install at your risk.

Homemade Front and Rear Urethane Motor Mounts using 3M Windo-Weld

1.Unless you can afford 3-4 days of downtime, get new or used front and rear motor mounts.
2.Drill a hole into the center of both of the mounts just below the center bolt. You may want to drill two holes so that it’s easier to get the Windo-Weld in there. Do the same to the pocket above the center bolt.
3.Drain all liquid that is contained in there.
4.Remove as much of the loose rubber on the top half of the mount that you can. Do not remove any of the bottom half (you should only have a hole or 2)
5.Once the mounts are stripped of all loose rubber (I only stripped the loose rubber on the rear) and completely drained, get some brake cleaner and clean the mounts up. You want them as dry as possible.
6.Inject the mounts with as much Windo-Weld as possible. The stuff is thick and hard to get out – but keep filling the top half and the hole in the bottom until there is no more room to add more.
7.Use a putty knife to smooth out as much as possible. Try to remove any air pockets if you can.
8.Let them dry for about 3 days (I did it on Weds and installed them on Saturday).
9.I found that putting them in the oven on low heat (~100 degrees F) worked wonders for hardening them up.

Changing the Front and Rear Motor Mounts for 2k2 6-Speed
Tools needed:
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
17mm socket
WD-40
6” Extension (for the 2 rear center member bolts)

1.Jack up the car by placing the floor jack at the jack point on the center member (page GI-46 in ESM) and putting jack stands on the side jack points.
2.Once the car is jacked up by the jack stands, place the floor jack under the transmission housing close to the center member. Only jack it up until you see the transmission start to rise. DO NOT JACK IT UP ANY HIGHER. You are only looking to remove pressure from the motor mount bolts.
3.Remove the front splashguards if you have them and spray all motor mount bolts with some WD-40 or equivalent.
4.Start to loosen (only loosen – do not take them out) the 2 bolts that are connecting the rear mount to the center member. Do the same for the front mount. *Unlike 4th gen Maximas; you are able to reach all motor mount bolts from under the car. *
5.Remove the center bolt going through the motor mount in the font and rear. You may need to adjust how high you have the floor jack to insure the bolts slide out easily.
6.Once you have both motor mount bolts removed, the center member can now be lowered. To do this, you simply need to take out the 2 bolts in the back and the 2 bolts in the front that hold the center member to the car.
7.Now you should have the center member removed with both mounts still connected. Simply remove the mounts from the center member.
8.Now you are ready to attach the new mounts. Attach the rear mount first and torque the 2 bolts to 70ft-lbs (page EM-60 is a good reference). You will see that it is very difficult to torque the rear bolts down with the center member in place due to the tight space on the passenger side of the motor mount (exhaust in the way).
9.Do the same with front except do not torque the bolts down. You may need the few mm of play to fit it up to the motor.
10.With the rear mount completely attached and the front mount attached fairly snug, put the cross member back into place with the rubber disc on the passenger side inside of the mounting bracket attached to the motor. It helps if you start the front and rear center member bolts just enough to hold the member up.
11.Line up and install your center motor mount bolts and torque them to 70ft-lbs.
12.Once your front motor mount bolt is secure, go ahead and torque the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the center member down to 70ft-lbs.
13.After all motor mount bolts are torqued to 70ft-lbs – you are ready to torque the center member bolts to 70ft-lbs.
14.Once all bolts are torqued to spec – you can remove the jack holding the transmission
15.Have a beer – and check out the new mounts and reduced wheel hop!!

Brian
Orinackra
Starter Removal, Re-grease, and Installation (To Correct Whine Sound)

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Just a disclaimer....I am not responsible for any mechanical, electrical, or other damage resulting from following these directions. This is at your own accord.

Start Removal/Installation & Re-greasing:

Estimated Time: 1.5 hours

Tools Needed:

--Metric sockets: 10MM, 12MM, 14MM, & 17MM (deep sockets)
--3/8” (recommended due to tight space) or 1/2” drive with small extension.
--Philips head screwdriver
--Hi-temp multi-lube silicone grease
--Brake or carburetor cleaner
--Nissan ESM or FSM (not required, but highly recommended, look at page SC-19)

All steps consider person at the front of the car facing the engine bay.

Part I: Start removal

Step 1: Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Step 2: Remove intake assembly. (I suggest removing everything up to the throttle body, you will need the room.

Step 3: Detach harness protector that is above the starter and to the left of the battery. This is quite difficult to do without breaking. I ended up breaking mine, but it wasn’t that big of a deal to me because I didn’t feel the need to have the harness clamped in. But if you want to remove without breaking take your time and be patient, you have to separate the protector clip from the mounting bracket.

Step 4: Disconnect starter harness connecting the start solenoid to the power supply wire using a 12MM socket or open ended wrench.

Step 5: Loosen upper 14MM bolt with a deep 14MM socket and 3/8” or 1/2" drive. Requires some force to be removed.

Step 6: Loosen and remove lower 17MM bolt with deep 17MM socket or a 17MM socket and extension. This requires a lot of force to remove.

Step 7: Pull starter away from engine at a slight downward and away angle. This requires some maneuvering to remove from the engine as there is little room to work with. Removal of the battery may help in this situation, but I didn’t end up having to remove the battery.

Part II: Disassembly & Cleanup of the Starter

Step 1: Using brake or carburetor cleaner clean the outside housing of the starter and the solenoid.

Step 2: Remove the solenoid using a 10MM socket on the two 10MM bolts. Loosen the top bolt connecting the power supply cord. Carefully remove the solenoid from the starter. Keep a close track on the parts as to how they came off and where they go. These parts do not need to be re-lubed unless you have excessive mileage (probably 75K or more). Mine did not require to be re-lubed, the grease was still viscous and not hardened.

Step 3: Remove the rear cover from the starter using a Phillips head screwdriver on the two screws. You might notice a lot of copper filing and dried grease in the cover. This should be cleaned.

Step 4: Remove the two 10MM Through-bolts.

Step 5: Carefully pull apart the upper assembly containing the charging elements of the starter. This includes the brush assembly, armature assembly, yoke assembly, and center bracket. Clean the yoke assembly and center bracket with brake or carburetor cleaner. The brush assembly and armature assembly can be cleaned with compressed air, or stiff bristle brush. Keep track of the parts and how they were removed.

Step 6: Remove the internal gear, packing, and planetary gear. These need to be cleaned and re-greased with high temperature grease.

Step 7: The rest of the starter should come out basically as one piece. I would suggest leaving it as is, except for re-greasing the pinion shaft as much as you can. The intricate parts such as the rings requires special tools and in my opinion are not worth acquiring for this task.

Step 8: Clean gear case assembly.

Part III: Starter Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the starter. Keep a close track on the parts. I re-lubed the packing, planetary gears, and internal gear as I re-assembled the starter. Be sure to line up the holes in the center brackets, yoke assembly, and brush holder assembly. They need to be aligned so the Through-bolts can reach the bottom of the starter and be tightened.

Step 2: Replace the starter solenoid. Be sure to assemble all parts in the correct configuration!

Step 3: Tighten all bolts. From the ESM there are torque specifications, but I tightened all bolts finger tight and then 1/4 turn.

Part IV: Starter Installation

Step 1: Put start back in place using the reverse order of removal instructions. Be sure to finger tighten all bolts before tightening them down all the way!! Use the deep sockets to get the bolts started, unless you have small hands and can start the bolts without the sockets. Finger tighten 14MM, 17MM, and 12MM bolts. Tighten 12MM bolt connecting the power harness to ½ turn more than finger tight or per the required torque specification. The 14MM and 17MM bolts tighten with a large amount of force.

Step 2: Re-install harness protector.

Step 3: Re-install intake.

Step 4: Reconnect negative battery terminal.

Start the car and enjoy the whine free sound!
Orinackra
FSTB Installation Guide

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Here is my write-up for installing a Front Strut Tower Bar/Brace. (The link to the write-up mentioned on Page 4 didn't seem to work.) Installation is very easy and shouldn't take one more than 20 minutes.

Good luck. Peace.

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TOOLS NEEDED:
A. Socket Wrench
B. Torque Wrench (set between 32 to 38 ft-lbs)
C. 14mm Socket (deep)

ADDITIONAL/HELPFUL TOOLS:
A. Additional tool(s) required by the maker of the FSTB
B. Rubber Mallet


INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Keep the car on level ground, pop open the hood, and look at your engine bay.
2. With the socket wrench and 14mm socket, remove the three gold nuts from each of the front strut towers. If the nuts will not come off easily, try using a rubber mallet to the wrench.
3. Test fit FSTB brackets over the tower bolts. The bolts are not equal distant from each other so each bracket can only go to a certain tower.
4. Put the gold nuts back on. Tighten them loosely.
5. Attach the FSTB to the brackets. Adjust distance/height accordingly and tighten the bar to the brackets with whatever size tool required by the maker of the FSTB.
6. With the torque wrench and 14mm socket, tighten the gold nuts to the correct torque. Nissan recommends 32 to 38 ft-lbs. Do not tighten more than that or you risk damage to the bolts.
7. Close the hood and start the car.
8. Run the windshield wiper fluid to be sure the FSTB is not impeding the flow of the fluid tubes under the hood.
9. Take the car out for a spin.

NOTE FOR '00/'01 MAXIMAS:
With some FSTBs, the driver-side bracket may not allow the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch to clear. If this is the case, add the following steps between steps 3 and 4 above:

I. The Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch is held in place by a plastic clip attached to a metal bracket. Reach underneath the metal bracket and release the plastic clip.
II. Flip the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch upside-down and attach the plastic clip from the underside of the metal bracket. This should not affect anything, and the clip should remain in place just fine although there is now almost no wire and tubing slack.
III. Now the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch should be underneath the metal bracket instead of over it, allowing the driver-side FSTB bracket to fit.

NOTE FOR '02/'03 MAXIMAS:
For '02/'03 Maximas, there can sometimes be problems where the FSTB will not clear the intake manifold collector when the car is in reverse which will cause a knocking sound. If this is the case, add the following step between steps 2 and 3 above:

- Place a 3/8" or 10mm washer over each tower bolt.


COMMENTS:
- Most people will agree that the FSTB does not provide a night-and-day difference in performance. The bar is there to help reduce chassis flexing when the car corners and to improve steering response a bit. Most people combine this mod with a Rear Anti-Sway Bar (RSB), and it is this mod where one will feel the most difference. For the Maxima owner who doesn't plan on changing the stock springs, shocks, or struts, the FSTB and RSB combo provide a great and relatively inexpensive one-two-punch for suspension improvement.

- FTSB prices can range from $15.00 (generic on eBay) to $190.00 (Stillen) / $195.00 (Cattman). Depending on the make of the bars, they are constructed of either hollow aluminum (RaceSonic, Autobacs1, Bomz, etc.), solid aluminum (Otto, Aerospeed, Stillen), or titanium (Cattman). All the bars do the same thing, so the prices differ more for looks, not performance.


DISCLAIMER:
The above instructions are meant as an installation guide. I cannot and will not be held responsible for any damage or injury caused by the following of this write-up. Always be prepared with the proper equipment/tools and confidence before attempting maintenance, repairs, or modifications to your car. Safety first...urgency of everything else second.
Orinackra
How-To RESET the Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System(NVIS) on a 2K-2K1

Once a BAD key has been used CONSECUTIVELY five or more times to unsucessfully start the engine, the ECU enters "LOCK MODE".

If the ignition key is in the "ON" position and the security indicator LED(on the clock) is ON(doesn't blink), the NVIS is triggered by one of numerous possiblities but it's probably the chip in the key.

There are TWO possible solutions:
1)Try to escape from LOCK MODE,MUST USE A GOOD KEY and perform the following:
a.Turn ignition switch to "OFF".
b.Turn ignition switch to "ON" with GOOD key.(Do NOT start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
c.Return key to "OFF".
d.Repeat steps b and c TWICE(total of three cycles).
e.Start the engine.

2)If 1) didn't work it MUST be towed into Nissan to have ALL the keys wiped and reprogrammed with the ECU.
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Old 03-21-2007, 10:17 AM #45
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2002+ SES/MIL and ECU Reset Procedure

This is how to reset all the stored SES/MIL codes in the ECU, as well as resetting all the learned settings in the ECU. Note that it takes between 100 and 200 miles AFTER the reset before the ECU will adapt to your driving style.

This procedure is also helpful in retrieving the stored error codes without the use of an ODB-II scanner. Just follow steps 1-4 and the SES light will flash with a code. The code will be 4 digits long. A "0" is ten flashes. The SES light will pause between digits. If there are multiple codes stored, the SES light will flash the first code, then second, then third... and repeating again at code number 1.

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp

[edit]
!!!!!WARNING...Make sure the engine is NOT running...WARNING!!!!!
Orinackra
JIC FLT A2 Install

Tools needed:
small floor jack
medium - large floor jack
1/2 inch drive ratchet
1/2 inch drive breaker bar
17mm, 19mm socket
17mm wrench
spanner wrench (2)
13/16 socket
pliers
3/8 inch drive ratchet
6 inch extension
14 mm socket


Rear Coilover Install

1. Loosen lugnuts.

2. Jack vehicle up. This can be done by positioning the jack in the middle of the rear axle, or if a sway bar is installed, on the rear trailing arm of of the axle. Place jackstand underneath vehicle.

3. Remove wheel.

4. From the inside of the trunk, remove the carpeting to gain access to the top of the rear shock. loosen and remove nut that is visible with a 14mm socket. the other nut can be removed with the 6 inch extension.

5. Break loose the 17mm bolt with a breaker bar. Penetrating oil or other liquid can be sprayed to help loosen the bolt. In this case, spray oil and let it sit for a couple of minutes before attemptong to break loose the bolt. Remove whole shock and coil assembly.

6. With the rear coilover assembly, install the lower mount first. Hand tighten the bolt. with the assistance of a floorjack, raise the axle/trailing arm to guide the bolts on the upper mount through the mounting holes. Secure 14mm nuts.
Now tighten the lower shock mount bolt. Lower vehicle and repeat for the other side.

Front Coilover Install

1. Loosen lugnuts on wheel

2. Raise the front of the vehicle. there are three points that you could do this at. One is the bottom of the control arm, another is a circular mount for the control arm(I think), and the last is the actual jack stand point.

3. Remove lugnuts and wheel. break loose the two 17mm bolts and nuts. The same method of applying a penetrating fluid maybe used here stated above in step 5. Note: if using fluid, cover cv boot with a plastic bag. who knows what the chemical can do to the boots after a while.

4. With the hood open, break loose and remove three 14mm nuts on said strut assembly. if there is an FSTB, there is no need to remove this.

5. There is a brake line that is attached to the lower portion of the strut that is securd by a snap on locking device. This can be removed with a pair of pliers. I used a breaker bar handle and a screwdriver to punch it out. There is also an ABS line/wire that is secured to the strut as well. This can be removed by simply sliding them out by pulling on the grommets around the line.

6. Remove the two bolts and nuts from the lower portion of the strut. The spindle is now only supported by the sway bar, and cv joint. Be careful when removing the strut assembly, not to pull on the ABS or brake lines.

7. Install the front coilover from the lower mount first. Hand tighten the hardware, then place a jack underneath control arm to raise the coilover assembly to align the upper mounting bolts through the holes. Secure the bolts tight. Install wheel and lower vehicle.

At this point I had used a large floorjack to put tension on the control arm, that way I could get the jack stand out. I then put the small floorjack where the jackstand was and removed the large floor jack, then lowered the vehicle with the small floor jack. I couldn't jack the vehicle up with the small floor jack because it was too small to go underneath the control arm(I didnt have enough swing), and the point near the jackstand position, it was too tight for my mini me floor jack. This is why I used two jacks.

Setting ride height and leveling

At this point, I had the lugnuts snug on all of the wheels because I had to remove the wheels again and again in order to set the ride height and level the car.

Setting the ride height is pretty simple, but can get frustrating. To start, begin with one corner, and try to get the same distance from the fenderwell to the ground on all four corners. This means removing the wheel, undoing the lower strut/shock mount, and extending or contracting the lower part of the coilover.

Take measurements after adjustment and record them. Once the front or back is done then do the opposite. If there is a point during this process that you can not get the height equal to the other side, then maybe you should adjust the opposing corner, diagonally. Once you adjust the opposing corner, record the height on all corners and adjust accordingly. If you are like me, this may take a while since I like things to be as perfect as possible.

I will come back to this post and edit the leveling and setting the ride heigt at a later time. if there are any questions on the install, please let me know.
Orinackra
2000-2001 ECU Removal for TS Flash

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2000-2001 ECU Removal(in a lunch break):
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Tools Needed:
8mm gear wrench or socket
10mm gear wrench
12mm socket
shop light
shop towels
ground wrist strap
anti-static bag


1)Power/slide seats back as far as possible and lift steering column as high as possible.
2)Use 12mm socket to disconnect battery for 10mins. or more.
3)Pull/pop off black lower kick panel on PASSENGERs side of tunnel.
4)Attach wrist strap to ground screw behind/below glove box(anywhere convienient).
5)Push tab and pull black bar from left to right on ECU connector.
6)Push connector up out of the way.
7)Tuck shop rag inbetween carpet and ECU to catch the screw you will drop or else you'll need to add a magnet wand to your tools needed list.
8)Use 10mm wrench(gear type preferred) to remove 1st of 2 bolts holding ECU bracket to floor.
9)Switch to DRIVERs side and pull/pop off black lower kick panel on DRIVERs side of tunnel.
10)Attach wrist strap to ground screw.
11)Tuck shop rag inbetween carpet(probably not necessary, but just incase).
12)Unhook zip tie snap from ECU bracket with needle-nose and flat screw-driver or cut with snips if you don't care.
13)Use 10mm wrench(gear type) to remove 2nd of 2 bolts holding ECU bracket to floor.
14)Push ECU and bracket towards PASSENGER side.
15)Switch to PASSENGERs side.
16)Use 8mm socket to remove 4 bolts holding ECU to bracket.
17)Place ECU in anti-static bag and carefully package for drop&kick protection.
18)Follow TechnoSquares instructions on where/how to ship with filled out form off their website.

FYI, overnighting it in my own GIANT box(~2.4lbs.) was $40. However, TS reshipped in a "Medium FedEx Box" designed for large documents or binders(~1lb) with the ECU inside a "FedEx Pak Padded" envelope plus some scraps of bubble pack for filler to keep it from moving around. Probably a hell of a lot cheaper and nearly as safe.

Also, I was in a rush, but simply removing the shifter surround to access the two 10mm bolts holding the ECU bracket to the floor would be A LOT simpler/easier, if possible. I'll try that route soon.

WARNING: When you go to reinstall the ECU connector, push the black bar all the way to the right until it locks before inserting into the ECU. As it is sliding in, start moving it to the left until it locks. I had the bar *ALMOST* all the way to the right, but it was putting up a fight. YOU DO NOT WANT TO BEND THE PINS reinserting the connector, so BE CAREFULL and take your time.

Pretty easy to figure out just by looking at it, but sometimes the simple things can bite you and I thought this could help it be easier for newbs like me.
Orinackra
Cattman Y-pipe Installation Write-Ups

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I doubt we have these y-pipe write-up's/how-to's stickied, so I just thought I'd consolidate em someplace, here is my write-up:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/694087/5

And also Polo's:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=257288

And MaximaDave's:

http://maxima.cardomain.com/memberpage/133107/4
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