Anyone ever use Stance coilovers? Heard anything bad?

I might be pulling the trigger on this setup, or the JIC coilovers.

never heard of them, went on their website and it seems like there a new company somewhat
what kind of car are u using them on

Rx-7

what year

1988

1988 according to his Gallery...



Nice SHO you used to have Ronin

Thanks MeanMachiene.

Anybody.

have u tried TEIN there really good JIC is good also

never heard of them man but JIC is good.

tein are probably one of the best on the market it depends on what u wanna spend but i know alot of people who have run them and liked them
also check megan racing they make some alot of the dsm guys run those and i think there relatively inexpensive compared to the tein

i found this on a nissan site


http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/181274


S13 Stance Coilover Review

What’s in the box:

- 2 front struts with 8k springs (already assembled with dust boot in place)
- 2 rear struts with 6k springs (already assembled with dust boot in place)
- 2 black spanner wrenches
- 4 adjuster knobs with small Allen head screw to tighten down onto the adjusters
- 1 Large piece of paper with disclaimer, instructions, and FAQs
- 1 small Allen wrench for the adjuster
- 2 9k springs for the front
- 2 7k springs for the rear

Initial impression of the coilovers out of the box:

Front:
- Nice thick bracket where it meets up with the knuckle
- Large and durable perches
- Fully threaded shock body
- Camber plates up front are thicker than my Apex'i camber plates.
- The dust boots could have had a tighter fit on the threaded body though.
- Feels surprisingly light
- Nice anodizing on perches and upper mount
- The casing is powder coated although it feels more like it’s been anodized. Pretty weird but cool at the same time.
- I like having the option of switching between 8kg/6kg and 9kg/7kg spring rates without having to cough up extra cash.

Rear:
- Red polyurethane bushing in the lower bracket.
- Again with the thick upper mounting plate for the coilover.
- Lower bracket is made from a solid piece of aluminum instead of looking like it was just a small welded on eyelet like many other makers.
- The dust boots could have had a tighter fit on the threaded body.
- Feels surprisingly light
- Nice anodizing on perches and upper mount
- The casing is powder coated although it feels more like it’s been anodized. Pretty weird but cool at the same time.
- I like having the option of switching between 8kg/6kg and 9kg/7kg spring rates without having to cough up extra cash.


Servicing and Maintenance:
- Replacement shocks cost 160 for the inverted and 150 for the non-inverted. I still have yet to find out about how long it takes to get those replacement parts.
- Rear struts have available z32 lower brackets if you need it.
- Looks very durable with thick brackets and mounting points
- Rust resistance taken into account with good powder coating and anodizing

Technical specs:
- Piston diameter: 46mm
- Camber range: apparently up to +-4 degrees of camber
- Strut type – Front is inverted
- Spring: Linear cold wound springs
- Dampening: 15 way adjustable
- Fronts do NOT have eccentric bolts to adjust the camber. Everything needs to be done up top.

Installation:
- Pretty straight forward although they could use better documentation on the way the rear struts mount. You’ll notice that the rear lower bracket is offset from center, it’s got a side with a thick section of bushing and another section that’s got the beefy metal. There is no documentation in the manual about which side should go towards the knuckle. With some trial and error though, you can figure out the fatty bushing section goes towards the knuckle and the metal section is more towards the center of the car.
- Just out of habit though, I did apply a very thin layer of grease on the top and bottom of the springs. Don’t know if that will make a difference on these but yeah just out of habit I did this.
- Other thing you should note is that the springs come pretty loose out of the box, so hand tighten the spring perch till you can’t tighten it by hand anymore, then give it another couple turns with the spanner wrench.
- You should spray some lubricant into the pillow balls. I used a spray lube with Teflon. Don’t go for the WD-40 since it has a tendency to evaporate every couple days. You may get binding in the springs during turns apparently. I found this out a few days after I bought my coilovers, a guy with the model for the WRX was getting a lot of “ping ping ping ping” sounds when he’d make a turn.
- You’ll also want a ruler or you’ll be there all day with trial and error…

Torque specs*:
- Front upper mount 29-40 ft/lbs
- Front bracket 84-98 ft/lbs
- Rear upper mount 12-14 ft/lbs
- Rear bracket 65-80 ft/lbs
* These torque specs are for s13.

Road impression:

Softest settings:
- The initial settings were set to the softest setting they could be set to. Driving down bumpy roads, it felt a bit bouncy although this could be due to not much time set on getting them dialed in just right. The Stance coilovers were much more comfortable than I had originally anticipated. I’ve rolled on FLT-A2’s before and those were pretty stiff for the road conditions in San Francisco. These are much more streetable at their softest settings and are stiffer than the Koni strut/Tanabe GF210 spring combination that I had before, but much more confidence inspiring. The area I live in has a great many bumpy roads and uneven surfaces. At their softest setting, it was pretty impressive. I almost forgot I was driving on coilovers with the 8kg/6kg spring rating. Taking turns, the car remained flat. They are still very quiet and trouble free even after a week of driving on these.

Default settings:
- After the initial trial on the softest setting, I opted to go to the default setting of 6 of 15. Initially a dramatic different from the lowest setting, I thought the difference would be much more gradual, but at 6 of 15 it was a notable difference from the softest setting. The car doesn’t really bounce around or give any when going into turns or bumps which is comforting to know I’ll be on the road but not so great on big dips where I hear a scrape from the bits of under body that take the scrape (probably my engine pan but sounds pretty bad none the less). It took about a day to get used to the stiffer settings. On this setting, it’s a good blend of what you expect from a good set of shocks and springs with a friendly reminder every now and then (over bigger bumps) that you’re on coilovers. Great setting for on street driving is default.

Hardest settings:
- Moving onto the hardest settings 15 of 15. Wow, very stiff. I could have sworn that over one of the larger bumps on the road, my colon landed in my under pants. Well, maybe not that bad but bad enough. After that colon jarring experience, this will be the conclusion of the 15 of 15 setting. Not good for bad road conditions. Should make for a good time at the track, but unless your roads are well taken care of, don’t use this setting for your teeth, kidneys, and in my case my colon’s case.

I forgot to take pictures and got too lazy to take them during other routine maintainence but I'll get around to it soon enough and post those as well.

Tein is the most popular, but i doubt is the best.

The thing that caught my eye about these is the diameter of the struts piston shaft. Its huge compared to others, the least deflection the better.


I think ill wait until there is more feedback on the forums before buying these.

they look like a nice piece but i have never heard of them

Guys in the Lexus 2nd gen GS crowd have been using them for a while, they're awesome from everything I hear. Ride really nice and allow you to slam too. I would also look into Tein SS, Hks Hipermax, and definitely the JIC's. though the JIC's are super pricey, they're supposed to be the absolute best all around coilovers on the market.


There's a member on clublexus running the JIC coilovers that can lay frame on 19x10 rears, even drives it super low and says it still rides amazing.